Bangkok

Bangkok is a big, modern city and for the month we were in Thailand, it became our home away from home. Each time we passed through we discovered something new, and became a little more adept at navigating its many neighborhoods and dealing with the unscrupulous (or occasionally, simply clueless) taxi drivers that tried to overcharge us on our numerous transits to and from the airport.

During the first leg of our trip we stayed in Sukumvhit, one of the newer parts of the city, chock full of expats, international hotels, and lots and lots of ongoing development. It doesn’t have as much character as some other neighborhoods, but it does have all of the modern day conveniences one could ask for, like easy access to the Skytrain and Metro, world class restaurants in any flavor you desire, swanky shopping centers and $8 massage parlors on every corner.

We had a couple of days in Bangkok on our own, so we took advantage of this time to take care of some necessary business, like securing our visa for Vietnam. We also visited the seedier side of Bangkok (namely, the Patpong District) that our parents wouldn’t want to see. Patpong was once the center of Thailand’s busy sex trade, but is now is more of a circus-like atmosphere with a bustling night market and go go bars advertising ridiculous “shows” that would make your mother blush. You can’t help but feel a bit more depraved after walking around here, but it’s a sad reality in most big cities of South East Asia that this type of work provides much greater economic opportunity for women than any other.

The rest of our time in Bangkok (Thailand, really) was spent with either Gil’s mom or Jen’s parents , who lined up back to back vacations here. It was an unexpected treat to see family after all this time and we cannot even begin to express how much we appreciate them having made such a long and arduous trip to visit us! They proved to be great travel companions and made our time in this part of the world extra special. We even got to celebrate Gil’s mom’s belated birthday with a delicious seafood dinner and a mango and sticky rice complete with candle.

With family in tow, we hit up all the major tourist destinations, beginning with the classic Siam-style home of Jim Thompson, an American silk magnate who spent his life in Bangkok, and continuing on to Siam Square, the fashionable commercial center beloved by Bangkok’s hipster youth. In the small lanes that line the Square you can find hundreds of emerging local designers selling their creations for a pittance. Unfortunately, if you are taller than 5’ 6”, weigh over 120 pounds or have feet larger than a size 7 (yes to all of the above) you have a slim chance of finding something that fits. The saving grace is that a face massage at one of the trendy spas here comes in one size fits all!

We also spent time in Bangkok’s Chinatown, which, like San Francisco’s Chinatown, is known for bargain basement prices on all manner of things you don’t need and infuriating traffic jams. It’s a very lively place, packed with throngs of shoppers during the day and lit up by an endless sea of neon at night.

A few ferry stops up river from Chinatown, you reach the old city where all of the big ticket attractions are found. The Grand Palace is no longer the primary residence of the King, but its classic European-inspired buildings give you an idea of the grandeur of this historic kingdom that lives on to the present day. The importance of the royal family to the Thai people is obvious in the reverential pictures you find displayed in homes and businesses big and small, but this reverence really showed through to us when we saw hundreds of Thais dressed in black and making a pilgrimage to the palace to pay their respects to the late Princess (the sister of the King) who passed away in 2007. The mourning period will continue throughout the next year and we came across flower-draped memorials to her in nearly every town.

Within the grounds of the Grand Palace is Wat Phrakaew, one of the most ornately decorated temples in all of Thailand. Millions of tiny mirrors and gold filigree sparkle in the sun like jewels, serving as a fitting showcase for the Emerald Buddha housed inside. The Emerald Buddha (which is apparently really made of jasper) has a long history, having traveled from Chiang Rai to Laos and finally to Bangkok, and is one of the most revered images in the country. The image even has different outfits that the king personaly changes each season (he was donning both his winter and rain-weather gear when we visited).

The courtyard surrounding Wat Phrakaew is quite interesting as well. There are several other beautiful buildings, a model of Angkor Wat, and hundreds of protective or lucky figures standing guard in gilded or mosaic dress. There is also a detailed mural circling the area that depicts the Thai-version of the Ramayana, a very colorful story indeed!

Nearby Wat Pho is another treasure of Bangkok. The main temple holds the largest Buddha image in the country, reclining on his side in relaxation. The golden image is barely contained by the walls that surround it and you are truly awe struck by the size when walking its perimeter. Wat Pho also has the largest collection of Buddha images in Thailand and some beautiful chedi that look like a little like frosting-covered wedding cakes. It is also home to a traditional massage school, evidenced by the peculiar sculptures depicting various yoga poses and massage techniques scattered amongst the temple structures.

No visit to Bangkok would be complete without spending hours upon hours shopping in the city’s many markets. From the tiny amulet market, where people go to purchase protective trinkets to ward off evil, to the Chatuchak weekend market, with over 15,000 mind-boggling stalls, there is something for everyone here – even if you just want to gape wide-jawed at the newborn parrots or freakish fish in the pet section.

We spent our final days in Bangkok at a market of a different type, the “farang” (foreigner) ghetto of Khao San Road. It’s a great place to replenish your travel wardrobe, buy a plate of pad thai for 50 cents, grab a 2 for 1 bucket cocktail at a make-shift street side bar or check out a cheesy Thai cover band. It’s not for everyone and not necessarily representative of Thai society, but it is a cultural oddity in its own right and certainly worth a peak if you want to inside scoop on the backpacker scene. We’re not sure if it scared our parents more or gave them comfort that we’re not the only crazy people trying to get out there and see the world.

Trivandrum to Chennai to Bangkok

From Varkala we headed south to Trivandrum, where we caught our overnight train to Chennai. We only had a few hours to get a feel for Trivandrum, but it seemed busy – like a good state capital should be – and friendly – as any place situated the far reaches of the continent would need to be to thrive. We visited a beautiful temple with ornate sculpture near the center of the city and had yet another delicious dosa before boarding our last train in this country so defined by the tracks that cross it in every direction.

We had just one night in Chennai and were busy with last minute preparations for the next leg of the journey, so unfortunately the charms of this city – the largest in Tamil Nadu and the 5th largest in all of India – eluded us, for the most part. It’s not that the place is unpleasant, but given that it’s quite spread out and difficult to navigate on foot, it just doesn’t offer much to the short-term tourist. Still, we relished our last few moments in the embrace of Mother India. From the swirling colors of the women’s saris and the skinny legs protruding from the men’s lungi to the mounds of colorful fruits or stacks of bamboo sold street side, there are always treasures to be found here.

We reluctantly loaded our bags into a tuk tuk and departed for the airport, with our minds brimming with thoughts and our hearts bubbling over with emotions. India embodies everything that is wonderful and horrible in our world and forces you to confront those things day in and day out. You cannot hide from humanity here, cannot brush it off or turn your back to it, cannot forget or ignore. Your only option is to jump in and surrender to the currents churning around you – nearly drowning at times, but otherwise getting the ride of your life.

We leave India like you might leave a scorned lover. Exhausted, remorseful, relieved. And sitting on the Thai Airways flight to Bangkok, eating a meal at 2 AM, we were sure of one thing – we’ll be back for more.

Varkala

Varkala has a couple of small and unremarkable beaches with crashing waves and a frightening undertow. But, the cliffs that silhouette the Arabian Sea here are quite spectacular and a unique feature along an otherwise flat coastline. It must be these cliffs that inspired the building of a temple to Vishnu here over 2,000 years ago, and it is undoubtedly this stunning backdrop that continues to draw pilgrims, tourists and yoga retreats to the area today.

We only had 2 short days in Varkala, but did our best to enjoy what was on offer. We sampled the fresh fruits being peddled by squat women wrapped in saris on the beach and spent hours choosing from the cornucopia of seafood on offer at the cliff-side restaurants. We relaxed on the black sand beach in the morning, moved to the shaded cafes to hide away the afternoon and then returned to the beach in the evening to get pummeled and pounded by salt water as the sky turned pink and purple.

We feel our time on the subcontinent winding down and can’t help but get nostalgic for a place we’ve grown to love. But, we suspect the friendly people and coconut curries in Southern India will provide a perfect transition to the friendly people and coconut curries of Thailand and so we balance our nostalgia with our growing anticipation of what lies ahead on the next portion of our world tour.

Allepey

Kerala has hundreds of miles of water channels winding through its coastal areas and the city of Alleppey is one doorway into this enchanting realm. The city itself is intersected by several canals, and if it weren’t for the abundant palm trees and scores of umbrella shops (essential year round thanks to both the monsoon and sun), you might be convinced you were strolling in Amsterdam. There is also a nice beach on one end of town, frequented by a mostly Indian clientele eating ice cream, flying homemade kites and braving the crashing waves in t-shirts and jeans.

From Alleppey we organized a cruise on a houseboat built to resemble the rice barges that traveled the backwaters not so long ago. Houseboats, or “kettuvallam” as they are known locally, are big business in Alleppey, with hundreds of them already plying the waterways and more being built all of the time. It was an expensive endeavor by India standards, but a steal by any other – for just $100 we got a deluxe boat with 2 beautiful bedrooms, the service of 3 crew members and a delectable Keralan-style breakfast, lunch and dinner. After roughing it in some pretty dingy rooms, it felt entirely luxurious to us, when we entered the boat and were handed coconuts (complete with straws and umbrellas) and told to sit down and relax. Heaven.

The backwaters are spectacular. Emerald green rice paddies butt up against rows of towering palms that cast undulating shadows onto the dark canals below as the sun dips toward the horizon. Children ride their bikes down the narrow stretch of land that connects them to their neighbors, excited to splash and play in the water with friends. Men propel themselves along in carved wooden canoes with paddles or a long pole, casting out finishing nets and waiting patiently. Women beat clothes clean with rocks or carve the flesh out of coconuts in preparation for the next meal. Kingfishers perch on telephone wires to stalk prey from above, while herons and egrets dip their long necks into the brackish water in search of fish.

The wetlands are a truly magical place – and an ecosystem in danger around the world. We feel lucky to have experienced the Kerala backwaters in this way, but hope that the local government will keep the desire to grow tourism in check with the need for strong environmental protections.

Fort Kochi

Having gotten our fill of the party life, we headed down to Kerala, Goa’s tamer and more pious younger sister. Gone were the liquor stores on every corner, and back were the days of illicit beers served in tea pots that we had first come across in Rajasthan. But, change is good and Fort Kochi – a beautiful coastal city with lots of character - welcomed us to the state with open arms.

Cochin was another Portuguese colony and the old town retains a lot of its historic charm, with a handful of attractive Cathedrals, including the oldest in India. But the Portuguese were not the only foreigners to leave their marks on the city – there is a Dutch cemetery, fishing nets borrowed from the Chinese, and even a handsome synagogue in the area know as Jew Town. Today the city also has a thriving Muslim community, and of course, lots of tourists from the far corners of the world.

Although Fort Kochi’s biggest industry these days is tourism, it is still a working fishing town, with a series of large Chinese fishing nets strewn along the shore. It takes 5 people to work these devices and while the catch looks pretty meager, they are still in operation at daybreak and sunset. The fishermen who take to the sea on boats seem to have better luck hauling in a substantial load of squid, fish and crab, and auction it off to the highest bidder immediately upon arriving at the shore. Fishmongers also line the sidewalk nearby, selling seafood by the kilo that you can bring to any of the local restaurants to have grilled for a small fee. Delicious.

Jew Town today is little more than a relic from history, as nearly all of the decedents of the original refugees who were welcomed here by the Kerala Maharajas a thousand years ago have returned to Israel. But the neighborhood has reinvented itself, with antique dealers and local artisans selling reminders of Southern India’s glorious past, such as intricately carved wooden doors and silver-plated swinging chairs. Alongside the antique shops are several art galleries showcasing a much more contemporary vision of India. As a burgeoning center for modern art, Fort Kochi is home to many talented young painters, sculptors and photographers.

A more ancient art form – Kathakali theater – is also practiced today in Fort Kochi. Events from the Hindu epics Mahabharata and Ramayana are acted out by incredibly costumed characters who use animated facial and hand expressions, rather than words, to tell stories through dance. On sacred occasions the storytelling goes on all night, and actors must study for nearly a decade to become proficient.

Fort Kochi’s modern day cousin, Ernakulam resides across the bay and is a modern city in India’s most progressive state. Kerala is run by the Communist party and boasts the highest literacy rate of any area in the developing world. But, its politics have also hindered outside investment and economic growth has lagged behind some other parts of India. Fortunately, the tourism industry – catering to both newly moneyed Indians and foreigners – is helping to bring some much needed opportunity to an educated populace that has historically had little career potential. While there appear to be both benefits and drawbacks to a highly socialized state, there continues to be strong ongoing support for the current political leanings, with red banners and posters saturating the towns we passed on our bus ride south.

Arambol

We felt it only proper to celebrate New Years on the beach, so we left Panaji for Arambol, one of the northern most beaches in the State. Goa is the stuff of legends, with the hippies first discovering its pleasures in the 60s and the ravers reinventing it as “Disco Valley” in the 80s and 90s. Some of that legend has turned to dust, with hotels catering to packaged tourists buying up the prime real estate and the government imposing a ban on loud music after 10 pm. But, it still seems to draw in the crowds around the holidays and Arambol, at least, still retains much of the relaxed vibe that attracted new agers long ago.

We rented a simple bungalow near the cliffs and spent our days wandering the beach with the resident cows. Every five feet we came across aging hippies building sand castles with their naked flower children, dreaded college drop outs practicing poi, yogis doing handstands or loners listening to Ipods and dancing with themselves in the surf. And then there were the groups of young Indian guys, dressed in jeans and loafers, who were clearly using their lunch break to scope out western women in bikinis. It was humanity its quirkiest and it provided near constant entertainment.

We took a small break from the time warp to join the 21st century for the Sunburn Electronic Music Festival on Calangute beach, followed by the BLive party at the Sinquerim helipad later that night. Even though Carl Cox was the headliner, the crowds consisted of many more Indians than vacationing Brits. It was fascinating to watch the juxtaposition of traditional and emerging culture, with some of the young Indians clearly feeling excited, but also a little awkward to be taking part in something so far removed from their everyday lives for the holiday weekend.

On New Year’s Eve we had a great dinner and then hit a few hilarious dance parties along the beach front. At midnight, we went for a dip in the ocean, taking in the fireworks shows on both ends of what seemed to be an endless stretch of sand. It was pretty epic, if I do say so myself.

Panaji

We took an overnight bus ride from Hampi to the coastal state of Goa. It was jam packed with travelers headed to the beach for the holidays and offered little rest thanks to a group of raucous Israelis singing, playing guitar and coughing loudly in the back of the bus.

Our first stop was Panaji, a charming Portuguese port town that left us utterly confused on arrival. Where were the cows (and accompanying cow patties) clogging every city artery? And what happened to the noisy tuk tuks belching choking smoke from their exhausts? And wait – what is this? An honest to goodness, bona fide sidewalk? One with enough room to actually walk on? And how about the pictures of Jesus tacked onto every other pastel colored building? Had our bus taken a mysterious detour to another country, say somewhere in the Mediterranean? This was a new side of India that was a far cry from the one we had gotten to know in the North.

Although we relished the thrill of being somewhere exotic and ancient and dreamlike that we got from being in Varanasi, Rajasthan or Hampi, it was a nice treat to be somewhere that seemed just a teeny bit more familiar. We went to the movies. We hid from the seething sun, drinking lattes in the air conditioned comfort of the Café Coffee Day. We ate delicious seafood dinners – not just Indian, but Thai, Chinese and Portuguese too. We read the Economist. We bought tickets for a late night music festival.

Panaji proved to be a great place to unwind and recharge for a spell, and the perfect place to spend Christmas. It’s home to a beautiful white cathedral, Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, perched high on a hill, and its steps were often crowded with various Santa Clause imposters tossing out candy and posing for pictures with children. The homes and guest houses were decorated with lights and paper stars, and carols piped through the feeble sound systems of stores and restaurants.

A few kilometers from Panaji is Old Goa, the original seat of the Portuguese empire in India. It’s now a World Heritage Site and home to a collection of old churches, some in pristine condition and others in ruins. The real draw for the faithful is the Basilica of Bom Jesus, which houses the mortal remains of St. Francis Xavier, the patron saint of Goa. St. Francis Xavier is credited with spreading Catholicism to the East, but his true claim to fame may be that upon his death on an island near China his body appeared to be impervious to the decay that afflicts most human corpses. It was deemed a miracle and his remains (or at least what is left of them today) are on display in the church. Indians crowded toward the coffin to gawk and say a prayer.

Panaji is not without its Hindu roots as well, as evidenced by the beautiful temple on the east side of the hill that splits the city down the middle. But, standing proudly in a light salmon colored sheath, it too could not escape the influence of the Mediterranean people who once called this place home. Another great example of the great diversity of influence that makes India such a fascinating place to visit.