tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-64484555400545468102024-03-12T17:43:13.973-07:00Jen and Gil's World AdventureThe GILhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11593548266095732715noreply@blogger.comBlogger111125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6448455540054546810.post-37856396986823755502009-01-24T16:40:00.000-08:002009-01-24T18:30:42.002-08:00Aoraki/Mt. Cook<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5295048341744582434" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 367px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 113px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZkgbnUzHrEj_rtYp-gnRHtouXdUgT_6EQgSPE0wZWjOcFxKKyxj4ExHV51Qc5ZWgSpCB65ov6bulaNxUUriYGLGiAEXpkCXUXzaObsxQkd6vtD-qkMRrbikHs6oluUdQSrGU_yWpE6Ktl/s320/lake+view.jpg" border="0" /> From Tekapo, we headed further inland to another wildly blue lake, Lake Pukaki. From here, we caught our first glimpse of Mt. Cook. The mountain was named after Captain James Cook, one of the early western explorers of the islands, but its original name was Aoraki, which means "Cloud Piercer" in the language of New Zealand's first people, the Maori. <div><br /></div><div><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgT-jB-cxSbiU0WtVFc27rC-9MmCZEhU0Bom_XrC-GTIyuwFs5ldDClhngBvJxzDyVhTIym4i3EdCGl2JeecXfrE4AxCDD67d9cZZPV8Ovp6zH-lGG_dhUrfqaTmbQy4TTzcb9II1jyScJ/s1600-h/IMG_7182.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5295048839543856082" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgT-jB-cxSbiU0WtVFc27rC-9MmCZEhU0Bom_XrC-GTIyuwFs5ldDClhngBvJxzDyVhTIym4i3EdCGl2JeecXfrE4AxCDD67d9cZZPV8Ovp6zH-lGG_dhUrfqaTmbQy4TTzcb9II1jyScJ/s320/IMG_7182.JPG" border="0" /></a>Mt. Cook is the highest mountain in New Zealand - all of Australasia, in fact - and seems to emerge straight up from the belly of the island. You drive along the flat roads that skirt Lake Pukaki almost straight to the base of the Southern Alps. This is one of the best things about New Zealand; everything - from the mountains to the glaciers and more - is amazingly accessible.</div><br /><div>We were very lucky to have seen the Mt. Cook's peak, as it is very often shrouded in clouds. We went on a short hike in the morning to a viewpoint that gave us an <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkWZ-sCObVyBg0diLapVew2cp1ltTvm6tvxDAceohyc4tRxkvPHOovg3LTEpGLQwW6VX-e1O4IK6U4SEOld_XFUwI1UQeJvzsIU_qN1ysNKNODlhjPsCeVrq3ilHNj8bIsGIfGgkO17LtB/s1600-h/IMG_7278.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5295052188618453458" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 295px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 224px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkWZ-sCObVyBg0diLapVew2cp1ltTvm6tvxDAceohyc4tRxkvPHOovg3LTEpGLQwW6VX-e1O4IK6U4SEOld_XFUwI1UQeJvzsIU_qN1ysNKNODlhjPsCeVrq3ilHNj8bIsGIfGgkO17LtB/s320/IMG_7278.JPG" border="0" /></a>awesome view of the mountain range and the Mueller Glacier. Gil continued trekking further up into the Hooker Valley for a couple of hours, but eventually those infamous clouds developed and he found himself hurrying back to town to escape the windy cold and beat the impending rain. </div><br /><div>We spent the night at the cozy YHA in Mt. Cook Village and in the morning went on another hike to check out nearby Tasman Glacier, one of the largest in New Zealand. It looks a bit "dirty" because of the way it has advanced and retreated over time, but was still a spectacular sight to see. There are huge icebergs that fell of<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Io19abEL8AlSxTQKB2bVk7YRK2cEzCCkvWFyTOAamizS9mRmiGfPFZEFd7-98H2j0KZJNYD_Qw_JAWWJ7Zt5QiAFcyA0klOivgsFwfVtEAkwregglBNTsrd50HSgPYMEJib7fHK3sJmZ/s1600-h/IMG_7281.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5295051816943539698" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 295px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 216px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Io19abEL8AlSxTQKB2bVk7YRK2cEzCCkvWFyTOAamizS9mRmiGfPFZEFd7-98H2j0KZJNYD_Qw_JAWWJ7Zt5QiAFcyA0klOivgsFwfVtEAkwregglBNTsrd50HSgPYMEJib7fHK3sJmZ/s320/IMG_7281.JPG" border="0" /></a>f the face of the glacier floating in the terminal lake and we did not realize the scale of them until we spotted a small shape motoring around them, which we finally figure out was a rather large passanger boat!</div></div></div>Jen Wagnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15242788047144327120noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6448455540054546810.post-66108485809833116632009-01-24T15:57:00.000-08:002009-01-24T17:52:30.951-08:00Lake Tekapo<div><div>We rented a car and headed south from Christchurch, quickly figuring out why everyone sa<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJZyYLtBnUQTpZ7a4b-uk1_TDOTQ_i1RXmfSWND_bG5H48X7XB3BY2wwQfgfPIHTL97JHfgH6P_GzqARiA4N6ogME2deOOjvEhLw-0FZ_7Ho1NJ4qE6FyxfpuzsxvtJMTX0s8puZfAdfsu/s1600-h/IMG_7111.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5295041363083699986" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 290px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 214px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJZyYLtBnUQTpZ7a4b-uk1_TDOTQ_i1RXmfSWND_bG5H48X7XB3BY2wwQfgfPIHTL97JHfgH6P_GzqARiA4N6ogME2deOOjvEhLw-0FZ_7Ho1NJ4qE6FyxfpuzsxvtJMTX0s8puZfAdfsu/s320/IMG_7111.JPG" border="0" /></a>ys the South Island is so amazing. We cruised along Highway 1, stopping in a few towns along the route in seach of some long underwear and a mattress pads for our tent, we turned off onto a windy road twisting its way up through rolling amber foothills of the islands great mountain ranges. </div><br /><div>We arrived at Lake Tekapo at dusk and checked into one of the local hostels (begrudgingly sharing a dormroom with some fellow travelers for the first time on our trip for lack of an affordable alternative!). We headed down to the lake for a night time strole and marvelled at the southern skies that opened up above our heads. There is an observatory nearby that supposedly affords some of the best views of the heavens in the southern hemisphere and we could certainly see why.</div><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5295042412948330946" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 362px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 221px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGLz0Gxv3DFFrspm2B9wcsuZLV_2trk7t0H51Fy26E54RKuTwrO9pgOguzp9bGLFJdT1r8oOS8YtsXDjS0BL0Oe5x6uNzuNP284y5L9hbjtfY8zFVKcfD8NMAIYkJJZO3sZ9oVkMI7D2K4/s320/IMG_7117.JPG" border="0" /></div><div>Our amazement of this place only grew when we awoke in the morning, because when illuminated by the sun, Lake Tekapo, and many of the other lakes in the South Island, appear to be an almost unnatural color of blue. The milky turquoise hue is due to the "rock flour" suspended in the glacial melt water, which was created when glaciers moved across the land pulverizing anything in their way. </div><br /><div>To make the scene even more picturesque, there is a tiny stone church built along the shore of the lake. A <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1DbqIq-SXN7cEb6Qy3Q7soTzHlFI8bDW7_8tCyUG4EneerT7IP2CTCIzXM3JWcZfqBP834Ui4Rf5n3lmiwqC3VA6a5WAv-TPZiV4M9KIlZIbSAZoevrvr1Edl4Dwb_uHYHWFTZHB5hSkM/s1600-h/IMG_7132.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5295042707522765026" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 298px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 223px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1DbqIq-SXN7cEb6Qy3Q7soTzHlFI8bDW7_8tCyUG4EneerT7IP2CTCIzXM3JWcZfqBP834Ui4Rf5n3lmiwqC3VA6a5WAv-TPZiV4M9KIlZIbSAZoevrvr1Edl4Dwb_uHYHWFTZHB5hSkM/s320/IMG_7132.JPG" border="0" /></a>bit more unusual is the dog statue nearby, which was supposedly built as a tribute to the sheepdogs that served the hearders that settled the area. We snapped a few classic photos here before heading out of town. </div></div>Jen Wagnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15242788047144327120noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6448455540054546810.post-77466999761863547602008-11-17T20:24:00.000-08:002009-01-24T17:14:39.999-08:00Christchurch, NZAfter one last day in Bangkok eating cheap pad <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">thai</span> and trading in our dingy t-shirts for shiny new ones, we boarded<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGElerw0T_mIqDW0Y8Cp7nTAZ_8PeAyNvwKg0_sJmz_389a75ipayQS72fSb_2JY8LtulCEM9ul2eScypKpvjdK6XCL15JHvLPy6JQXDjGqVKuWzl8QxNYOGVTwIKrJUt0VRvBHM_etz8z/s1600-h/IMG_9964.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5295031856560216114" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGElerw0T_mIqDW0Y8Cp7nTAZ_8PeAyNvwKg0_sJmz_389a75ipayQS72fSb_2JY8LtulCEM9ul2eScypKpvjdK6XCL15JHvLPy6JQXDjGqVKuWzl8QxNYOGVTwIKrJUt0VRvBHM_etz8z/s320/IMG_9964.JPG" border="0" /></a> the plane for New Zealand via Melbourne. It was strange to be ending another part of our trip and getting closer to the finish line, but even stranger to be back in a western country. The biggest shock by far were the prices. The US dollar was in the tank and where just a two days ago we were paying $20 a night for a hotel room with all the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">amenities</span> we could possibly need, now $20 wouldn't even get us a bunk in a hostel dorm room. This reality forced us to get a bit more resourceful, so we finally decided to take advantage of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">couchsurfing</span>.com - one of the best things to ever happen to independent travelers! Generous people from all walks of life offer to host travelers in return for nothing but a sincere thank you. What a novel idea!<br /><br />Our host, Tony, was a super nice guy and not only had a couch to offer us, but the luxury of a spare room. He gave us some tips for touring downtown Christchurch, helped us sort out our car rental situation and even took us to a local <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">couchsurfing</span> party. A perfect <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">poster boy</span> for all Kiwis, who <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRJtkTJUs84hDFj9TBLK6l9BLGKBs_bc_D-mRqMJdoMnAmBX0B2tV7syRXaIw-iavv5UeBdWPicvelr3RLJ8pQhFk5n9QhH_4w23ZxFcMO8h92q6o5DglRUxpu57K4bqPgbfkqLmOvczT5/s1600-h/IMG_0023.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5295031121047569586" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRJtkTJUs84hDFj9TBLK6l9BLGKBs_bc_D-mRqMJdoMnAmBX0B2tV7syRXaIw-iavv5UeBdWPicvelr3RLJ8pQhFk5n9QhH_4w23ZxFcMO8h92q6o5DglRUxpu57K4bqPgbfkqLmOvczT5/s320/IMG_0023.JPG" border="0" /></a>tend to be a very friendly and welcoming lot.<br /><br />Christchurch seems to be a very nice place. It reminds me a bit of a New England college town in that it has a few cultural highlights, a handful of bars and a decent selection of international restaurants. But, for being the South Island's biggest city, it's not a very big city at all. After a couple of days, you might find yourself fondly endeared or totally bored to tears. We probably fell somewhere between those extremes.<br /><br />Between the head and tail o<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7m9xEe4njRCgsZp0Vdipwit9SPdqoR29_wQEUejrXUthWsBqIVa2HcQj1zzo_xcJG412sjSnqiTkHLWEbtuC5QncUP_QPb4zn5rm5G7VrjqiSEArorO7o0wYfR32uvD4SGbKwZe0xC-s2/s1600-h/IMG_9961.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5295031656180611106" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 297px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 221px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7m9xEe4njRCgsZp0Vdipwit9SPdqoR29_wQEUejrXUthWsBqIVa2HcQj1zzo_xcJG412sjSnqiTkHLWEbtuC5QncUP_QPb4zn5rm5G7VrjqiSEArorO7o0wYfR32uvD4SGbKwZe0xC-s2/s320/IMG_9961.JPG" border="0" /></a>f our loop around the island, we spent about 3 days in Christchurch, which allowed us to take in the architecturally-stunning modern art gallery, visit the Canterbury Museum, which showcases regional history, and hit the weekend market at the Arts Center. We also had plenty of time to check out a couple of matches on the giant chess board in Cathedral Square and wander around the pretty botanical gardens.<br /><br />On our last day in tow<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikDEWHS5SC4gTE7dOsWdsRs-RyEUXfOVJY7TX998oeeqmaU17hxT1oiJ3Fb9aEL-ulRRToSm9MvocLPjbHC2rutIKyaPGznNLhk_iKPNcL2G9VttB1T-ZbHqUdpKZcVUvWmuEwZaaWKTfv/s1600-h/STE_9972.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5295032137536556994" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 290px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 216px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikDEWHS5SC4gTE7dOsWdsRs-RyEUXfOVJY7TX998oeeqmaU17hxT1oiJ3Fb9aEL-ulRRToSm9MvocLPjbHC2rutIKyaPGznNLhk_iKPNcL2G9VttB1T-ZbHqUdpKZcVUvWmuEwZaaWKTfv/s320/STE_9972.JPG" border="0" /></a>n, we headed out to the Banks Peninsula to check out the former French settlement of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">Akaroa</span>. We never actually made it though, because we left on an empty take of gas and apparently there are no gas stations between the two cities - at least on the scenic route we took! The empty tank light had been on for about 40 kilometers when we reached a windy dirt road headed across the volcanically formed mountains fr<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi31mqArAHnGIYYpHYJbgXMk32jLhakhSBzCcKvBoAYsKT9n3dAq24JGmqQyXfpBqbO6CyzhcylOktIzsdHerD22Hn4388Y-1T4CbUlcITJ8R-SRyRyWg2XB3Ln0RKhhrwa0C6XzygPqd5v/s1600-h/IMG_0010.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5295030959424412514" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 273px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 195px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi31mqArAHnGIYYpHYJbgXMk32jLhakhSBzCcKvBoAYsKT9n3dAq24JGmqQyXfpBqbO6CyzhcylOktIzsdHerD22Hn4388Y-1T4CbUlcITJ8R-SRyRyWg2XB3Ln0RKhhrwa0C6XzygPqd5v/s320/IMG_0010.JPG" border="0" /></a>om the northern coast. It seemed like a pretty risky move (one local we consulted said something along the lines of "gas? out here? good luck - you'll need it"), so we finally decided to turn around and head back toward civilization. We coasted down every hill in neutral and crossed our fingers as we drove on little more than fumes around the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">curvy</span> coastline and finally through what seemed like an exceedingly long tunnel from <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">Lyttelton</span> back into Christchurch. Amazingly, we made it to a gas station, but it was certainly not the relaxing day we had planned!Jen Wagnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15242788047144327120noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6448455540054546810.post-38737577722944855502008-11-09T18:29:00.000-08:002009-01-24T16:22:49.847-08:00Luang PrabangThe ride to Luang Prabang from Vang Vieng consisted of hour upon hour of twisty turns up the mountainside and back down, which caused many of the locals to vomit the entire way. The scenery was georgeous, but the frequent sight of smoke from fires being used to clear <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzr-73OzRBaH7J0nUzfM_95QkBZAuc6W2Xv-e0LbnUKgW1jFQwwGbY9C3DnAkNCLj-Pd3cTGiefntUrkmf05ORMzarCgs3QLNfpNb9VqA1vtHJ0nlx9SryUf5OVrdiqjRoB6Wz_PqL8kAM/s1600-h/18+Laos+(71).JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5295016676201481362" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzr-73OzRBaH7J0nUzfM_95QkBZAuc6W2Xv-e0LbnUKgW1jFQwwGbY9C3DnAkNCLj-Pd3cTGiefntUrkmf05ORMzarCgs3QLNfpNb9VqA1vtHJ0nlx9SryUf5OVrdiqjRoB6Wz_PqL8kAM/s320/18+Laos+(71).JPG" border="0" /></a>cut the land for agriculture was disappointing. It's tough to fault people trying to eak out a living, so hopefully with all the new initiatives aimed at fighting climate change we can figure out a way to provide some financial incentive for people to protect their native forests.<br /><br />There are a few cities we've been to on this trip that seem to just ooze charm and Luang Prabang is near the top of the list. It's the cultural capital of Laos and you are surrounded by beauty every step that you take through its quaint streets. The architecture is georgeous - classic teak homes are interespersed every block or so by gilded temples. Luang Prabang is a World Heritage Site, and its setting, at the intersection of two meandering rivers, is quite fitting for such a lovely place.<br /><br />Luang Prabang defintely has a more upscale and sophisticated feel compared to the bucolic south, but we happened to be there during Bpee Mai (Laos New Year), which meant the atmosphere was a bit wilder than usual. Bpee Mai lasts for 3 days in most parts of Laos, but in Luang Prabang it extends over 5<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoxv-xrJYJpUy18wI6haiVsREI6XtpN6jkdK92rEDurwWG6gNHYo7-pQAyGZ7v-J9aSiVSc5sAXDPKnyvFdmCBuBnUvMRTz5e9t1AbOUWlT7um6O1YoIP1HvIVUxYtJfHiiPUR49uf_fl-/s1600-h/18+Laos+(72).JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5295016474615312674" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 294px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 170px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoxv-xrJYJpUy18wI6haiVsREI6XtpN6jkdK92rEDurwWG6gNHYo7-pQAyGZ7v-J9aSiVSc5sAXDPKnyvFdmCBuBnUvMRTz5e9t1AbOUWlT7um6O1YoIP1HvIVUxYtJfHiiPUR49uf_fl-/s320/18+Laos+(72).JPG" border="0" /></a> days. There are many rituals and ceremonies that take place, ranging from the banal (like house cleaning) to the kitsch (like the crowning of Miss Bpee Mai).<br /><br />The festivities begion with a visit to a special holiday market where everything one needs for the celebration is available for sale, from noise makers to caged birds (which are released for good karma). Families tidy their homes so that old spirits can freely depart and then cross the Mekong to build sandcastle stupas. On the second<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy7WUScDRJWgRkarRSxzzdY1BoOGgE39CfHExmKUnhxlAsoVo2LO6HZHN9oc-b8-3w85s2srqIM8bHdWkacFB8UVq6lhq4dsAWpxPMCfRKKya1TBRBvd_RpSe_0a6DiYd6veKSS4AWQAaF/s1600-h/18+Laos+(69).JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5295016877356768514" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy7WUScDRJWgRkarRSxzzdY1BoOGgE39CfHExmKUnhxlAsoVo2LO6HZHN9oc-b8-3w85s2srqIM8bHdWkacFB8UVq6lhq4dsAWpxPMCfRKKya1TBRBvd_RpSe_0a6DiYd6veKSS4AWQAaF/s320/18+Laos+(69).JPG" border="0" /></a> day we saw a colorful parade down the city's main street, with women and girls made up in traditional costume, monks in bright orange robes and led by Pu No and Na No, two bizarre red-faced characters. In the days that follow there is a pilgramage to the wat that sits on top Phu Si (the hill that sits in the center of the city) and friends and families symbolically connect with one another by tying strings around each other's wrists. There is a special procession with a revered Buddha image named Pha Banga and all of the Buddha images are washed and blessed using a special naga-shaped spout.<br /><br />Keeping with the spirit of "cleansing", the entire city breaks out into a huge water fight. We joined the workers at our hotel splashing passersby with water as a New Year's blessing. Young people cruise around in the back of pick-up trucks scooping buckets out of giant vats, while others return fire with w<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZJI0Jsd2ncWq740GCRvhp-SuYwkLjjeAEKWk5qP_P4uBDInbBeRG8SUYfcf_mOjEBCRRBc1N2Zfq7-vHiXIKYLk8L9eXS6DgJrYvE1sr3T3Vi2g_9Q3qiBRhDiGaauVSyoyo3_yfeiJPF/s1600-h/18+Laos+(66).JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5295017250302548578" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 218px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZJI0Jsd2ncWq740GCRvhp-SuYwkLjjeAEKWk5qP_P4uBDInbBeRG8SUYfcf_mOjEBCRRBc1N2Zfq7-vHiXIKYLk8L9eXS6DgJrYvE1sr3T3Vi2g_9Q3qiBRhDiGaauVSyoyo3_yfeiJPF/s320/18+Laos+(66).JPG" border="0" /></a>ater guns from the back of moterbikes. The main street is where the most intense battles take place, and you need to keep an eye out for the few people who are dishing out more malicious "blessings" like a smear of black ink on your cheek or a blast of white powder in your hair. No one escapes from the action - we saw a group of monks dousing folks from the upper ledge of one of the wats and saw more than one elderly grandmothers tossing out cups! Luckily, it takes place during the hottest time of the year, so you don't really mind that you're soaking wet. Everyone is in good spirits, and things wrap up by sundown so you can go out and enjoy a nice dinner <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiduEMfg_WqAovwMUEGXJ0q4GA77c5A4RdhmC3NMm-IPlIz6yWbTQNP5YusxufeQi4uHhrvoyP4h-PF7IpjP535B8X4YiBiKz6Ql6MDOrZgZMvFQxGoDyIOWbbky0lQ9Q6bdrV3PfdeMWbi/s1600-h/18+Laos+(68).JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5295017029869425698" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 300px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 211px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiduEMfg_WqAovwMUEGXJ0q4GA77c5A4RdhmC3NMm-IPlIz6yWbTQNP5YusxufeQi4uHhrvoyP4h-PF7IpjP535B8X4YiBiKz6Ql6MDOrZgZMvFQxGoDyIOWbbky0lQ9Q6bdrV3PfdeMWbi/s320/18+Laos+(68).JPG" border="0" /></a>in dry pants. It was definitely one of the funnest things we did on the whole trip.<br /><br />Speaking of enjoying dinner, another highlight of Luang Prabang is its culinary riches. From the all-you-can-eat vegetarian buffet on the street to some top notch traditional Lao and French restaurants, you really can't go wrong. There is also a wonderful night market with some of the best handicrafts we've seen on our long trip, including beutifully woven scraves and hand-quilted blankets. If you're anywhere in South East Asia, its worth making the journey here, especially now that you can fly directly to and from Bankgok - which is exactly what we did in order to catch our flight to New Zealand...<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5295017397751507858" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 396px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 293px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi02sStfPRWCkWVoB3jvVczx9u_jtWdSLT1a2nXQk_TdEQGrKQNXV57rLi8DTIWTx6C3dWp2_YmMl-WfA9FBEpo3Rr_q_-KDBPBEVVB9f8tNN_Vb0lP6vZxSAPo1iQDFTEcWSyUJoJPEuQx/s320/18+Laos+(56).JPG" border="0" />Jen Wagnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15242788047144327120noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6448455540054546810.post-79214169226692110332008-09-15T20:38:00.000-07:002008-12-03T14:46:51.642-08:00Vang ViengVang Vieng is a guilty pleasure. It's the type of place that, as an enlightened travele<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivp0XM-eLRsnreTfOVeteyRm1d-42PmfbAUz0A2P0EsPlBTUNGU84_gwt7d4PHbGgdoQmYtMMqbHyt01CwOnPbTi8F0QzS23Y_ziXAm7jc8a-a2wbC3-yPUoZ3rErswYSGG5l6j0FZNnz5/s1600-h/IMG_6759.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5275695811900458722" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 299px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 223px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivp0XM-eLRsnreTfOVeteyRm1d-42PmfbAUz0A2P0EsPlBTUNGU84_gwt7d4PHbGgdoQmYtMMqbHyt01CwOnPbTi8F0QzS23Y_ziXAm7jc8a-a2wbC3-yPUoZ3rErswYSGG5l6j0FZNnz5/s320/IMG_6759.JPG" border="0" /></a>r, you want to hate. It's overrun with tourists wearing inappropriate clothing, overindulging in booze and poor imitations of western foods, watching crappy western television and generally not giving a damn about the culture or the people surrounding them. But, it's also ridiculously fun. If you can choke it down, chances are you'll ask for a second helping. <div><div><div><div><br /><div>So, what's the big draw? I'm sure that once upon a time people came here for the beauty of the river and the surrounding limestone <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlMsa69X7P5jP4gdQT4peFweguQfRRasSYilLwx8jzNu7L9n1n9UkvYv6EPE23Re0dzblTo-3W1je88l5lv7fZeOhDEE-Bs-uZUbEccgQsfn_FODpHiE70_fiqNzkiu2U0Rsw1_QC1GHJh/s1600-h/18+Laos+(54).JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5275695174791003634" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 296px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 215px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlMsa69X7P5jP4gdQT4peFweguQfRRasSYilLwx8jzNu7L9n1n9UkvYv6EPE23Re0dzblTo-3W1je88l5lv7fZeOhDEE-Bs-uZUbEccgQsfn_FODpHiE70_fiqNzkiu2U0Rsw1_QC1GHJh/s320/18+Laos+(54).JPG" border="0" /></a>moutains jutting skyward above an intricate system of caves. Today, the allure of the river is not its beauty, but the many make-shift bars that have been built along its banks, each with its own signature rope swing, zip line and volleyball court. You rent a tube and float along, as the proprieters pass you a reed and pull you into the shore to greetings of free shots and DJ music. If we could somehow replicate this in the States, we would be millionaires.</div><br /><div>In town, the situation is a little less worthy of emulation. There are lines of bars playing endless loops of "Friends" reruns, with the occasional "Family Guy" or "Simpsons" thrown<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVttE2Qehj5KP8Dlt_jVsP8OCKrUbPOxRYyvBgH2yHujjek78nu3vKIKU0HTQVJUk3O8KXOv9QQzWIDBuYKqJqc5efzilmSuzCyuw4oMVUu3Mjra9SMIK-ajc71lKrdlVe5Z8fvRo3EEPN/s1600-h/IMG_6787.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5275697700508388050" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 282px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 197px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVttE2Qehj5KP8Dlt_jVsP8OCKrUbPOxRYyvBgH2yHujjek78nu3vKIKU0HTQVJUk3O8KXOv9QQzWIDBuYKqJqc5efzilmSuzCyuw4oMVUu3Mjra9SMIK-ajc71lKrdlVe5Z8fvRo3EEPN/s320/IMG_6787.JPG" border="0" /></a> in for good measure. I am not sure why these places are so popular, but I am guessing it has something to do with the fact that most people are too drunk or hung over to do anything else but veg out in front of the TV.<br /></div><div>After a couple of days on the river, we decided it was time to get out and see more of the surrounding area. We rented a minibike and went in search of the many caves throughout t<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhykEnjiOC14-UBnJLa_GT49YBHlY7C9wXXfhN9LpRxkeXXnejK7qZMkGCYlcsKvod2hqy3ANTRbIFRtoaTdFft8c8_ooDe9MortyRdfa2cYaY9KToMYnrNbRorRqibHBjHJ3vV-uBFqoVd/s1600-h/18+Laos+(53).JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5275694994454389010" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 295px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 219px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhykEnjiOC14-UBnJLa_GT49YBHlY7C9wXXfhN9LpRxkeXXnejK7qZMkGCYlcsKvod2hqy3ANTRbIFRtoaTdFft8c8_ooDe9MortyRdfa2cYaY9KToMYnrNbRorRqibHBjHJ3vV-uBFqoVd/s320/18+Laos+(53).JPG" border="0" /></a>he region. Along the way we passed some local boys hurrying home to show off the birds they had caught. Gil climbed through one cave that extended a kilometer into the hillside and we followed a river into an<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4KXjxCmglMojjj8-dF2u6oZxADv77sM5tWNsfoTrefvK-a9q_MMFgw7Eb7fzK5lKfzipW2otSxSorfld6BgSe-wDBDpO3T02MouZtbNK9bWTgXM5yJ0dc8UZPespVKqDX4BFFypmxxLMm/s1600-h/IMG_6788.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5275696504489695458" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 225px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4KXjxCmglMojjj8-dF2u6oZxADv77sM5tWNsfoTrefvK-a9q_MMFgw7Eb7fzK5lKfzipW2otSxSorfld6BgSe-wDBDpO3T02MouZtbNK9bWTgXM5yJ0dc8UZPespVKqDX4BFFypmxxLMm/s320/IMG_6788.JPG" border="0" /></a>other deep cave by tube. We also visited a couple of more expansive caves trimmed with stalactites and stalagmites. One was the home to a Buddah figure surrounded with offerings. </div><br /><div>Back in town, we visited our favorite restaurant one last time - an organic restaurant using ingredients from a farm they own nearby - and then went for an ice cream at the local night market. Even though it was only two blocks from the packed Friends bars, we were the only foreigners there. For shame! </div></div></div></div></div>Jen Wagnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15242788047144327120noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6448455540054546810.post-32006149435223122862008-09-15T18:44:00.000-07:002008-11-24T18:24:07.067-08:00VientianeThe overnight bus ride to Vientiane (pronounced something closer to "wiangchan" by the locals) was long, but noticeably free of the earsplitting karaoke of which we had been warned, so we can't complain. The search for a hotel was another <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCABcEGd9vwcKjZfVjQ8-jMKcuHtvCTgaYiKztcEDmKUF2BX8N7bxwncAUj0rOK9TBqN6qEKs7FlL0nFUi7cAecdKwOO6w1Zs-BlY3WG0iHmw16z4RbxuBSWk9igHAhqNnyCOaZlUdYzV1/s1600-h/IMG_6641.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5272414634178488578" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 236px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCABcEGd9vwcKjZfVjQ8-jMKcuHtvCTgaYiKztcEDmKUF2BX8N7bxwncAUj0rOK9TBqN6qEKs7FlL0nFUi7cAecdKwOO6w1Zs-BlY3WG0iHmw16z4RbxuBSWk9igHAhqNnyCOaZlUdYzV1/s320/IMG_6641.JPG" border="0" /></a>matter (Lao New Years was fast approaching), but after a series of unsuccessful attempts, we finally found a great room a few blocks away from the river. <div><div><div><div><br /><div>Vientiane is the capital of Laos and although it's relatively sleepy compared to other Asian capitals, there was enough happening to keep us busy for several days. We started by visiting the city's temples by foot and then by bike. As a whole, they are less impressive than the temples in Thailand (no thanks to the Siamese, who destroyed nearly all of them in a series of invasions), but many boast special features or histories that make them unique. </div><br /><div>Pha That Luang, a golden stuppa of enormous proportions, is the most important natio<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxQ7VgJMT-ieFVjqn1QVzA1HzS860fIETxuoLM0WaL3ZdjGtR5hvZthYc08ldyvwgqzxsuSfO7gXBvsFb8GUeGkAVjp4Hty-jmj0pJaiNhhPUdd42_jNTxdp3RaEhYGg-Xjim8Y8IyChVD/s1600-h/IMG_6730.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5272409867296146258" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 283px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 210px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxQ7VgJMT-ieFVjqn1QVzA1HzS860fIETxuoLM0WaL3ZdjGtR5hvZthYc08ldyvwgqzxsuSfO7gXBvsFb8GUeGkAVjp4Hty-jmj0pJaiNhhPUdd42_jNTxdp3RaEhYGg-Xjim8Y8IyChVD/s320/IMG_6730.JPG" border="0" /></a>nal symbol and a point of pilgrimage for many Laotians. Its architectural design is meant to convey different aspects of Buddhist doctrine, with the lotus bud on top symbolizing human advancement toward enlightenment. The stuppa also represents national independence to many Lao people, since it has been rebuilt multiple times following the occupation of foreign rulers. </div><br /><div>Another interesting temple is Wat Si Saket, the only temple to survive the Siamese invasions. Today it houses more than two thousand Buddhist images of various shapes and sizes and a couple of interesting dragon-<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN0XCa7AXDm_i2ZU03CY1SP8VP-WjBEo5NanYvlz_iCrf8mp0tuvKWl3KUk-QXrejzpZXkjm2bdNm721ezd0IDbsVr3dyhAnirQ8PUG9kljdBUooy_BT1SoUiTFTXRBxeiWdtQ3voumDso/s1600-h/IMG_6750.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5272410316481217362" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 219px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 306px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN0XCa7AXDm_i2ZU03CY1SP8VP-WjBEo5NanYvlz_iCrf8mp0tuvKWl3KUk-QXrejzpZXkjm2bdNm721ezd0IDbsVr3dyhAnirQ8PUG9kljdBUooy_BT1SoUiTFTXRBxeiWdtQ3voumDso/s320/IMG_6750.JPG" border="0" /></a>shaped vessels that are used each year on Lao New Year to bless the Buddha images with water. Nearby sits Haw Pha Kaew, a royal temple built to house the legendary Emerald Buddha, which currently resides in Bangkok. There are many monks studying at these temples, all eager to practice their English! </div><br /><div>Other attractions in and around Vientiane include Patuxi, an Arc de Triomphe look-alike and the Xieng Kuan Buddha Park, a collection of larger-than-life sculptures built by a priest-shaman who integrated Buddhist and Hindu teachings. The sculptures were supposedly built by amateur artists, but what they lack in meticulousness they certainly make up for in sheer si<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha2Qm4FgAFGFzZrQYYwgkzCzFPN13Y9EsXk8Y1v16moBueWwjHvWTBGpEEgpe0OlkfItBKjtWVNsMnFFj7IxN2WhnpUgNKnrSyhFEsZ-mN32r66igWm7fc_NFdPi7PoVIdtHUxGEkDmfYx/s1600-h/IMG_6694.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5272408237035747346" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 299px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 219px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha2Qm4FgAFGFzZrQYYwgkzCzFPN13Y9EsXk8Y1v16moBueWwjHvWTBGpEEgpe0OlkfItBKjtWVNsMnFFj7IxN2WhnpUgNKnrSyhFEsZ-mN32r66igWm7fc_NFdPi7PoVIdtHUxGEkDmfYx/s320/IMG_6694.JPG" border="0" /></a>ze and bizarreness. It was a fun place to visit, especially since we got to wait for the bus with a couple of beers overlooking a local soccer match. Another highlight is the huge Talat Sao market, where we picked up some amazing hand-woven scarves.</div><br /><div>One of the best things about Vientiane, however, is <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixt5Am3k0IKqhRDVcuqkD7ZJuoaYD_8RPAMFJ7RMAF50AVz_0dAypymcWNR-qrpXiCu-pgaMQCiyhsNsQcNs6JJmaSC3_stvpcZBOe6Q1jZeXTsnwwrBNj-DDoYqxDTiitodmTvapd30CV/s1600-h/IMG_6718.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5272412827550689394" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 296px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 223px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixt5Am3k0IKqhRDVcuqkD7ZJuoaYD_8RPAMFJ7RMAF50AVz_0dAypymcWNR-qrpXiCu-pgaMQCiyhsNsQcNs6JJmaSC3_stvpcZBOe6Q1jZeXTsnwwrBNj-DDoYqxDTiitodmTvapd30CV/s320/IMG_6718.JPG" border="0" /></a>the proliferation of excellent, cheap restaurants - many in the tradition of the French, who ruled here for over 50 years. From quick eats by the river to a 4 course meal with wine, we did our best to take advantage of the city's fantastic culinary offerings. </div></div></div></div></div>Jen Wagnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15242788047144327120noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6448455540054546810.post-44582413618000427482008-08-04T13:03:00.001-07:002008-10-08T17:39:52.342-07:00Tat Lo and Pakse<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6mDgUNZCaXKhvyxZr3bnuxXKGSIk4PfdXLCbWSBWXJEP9kRT-Rh2ZFcHdLXNRvI7Cs85VfryE_-rbHhFytDVp-fH9UBHkbZ3Lt_WF_hGdJbShTqF67exssmiCxPwMbp7PM7nXsd4Laqpe/s1600-h/IMG_6545.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5254945070314229506" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="215" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6mDgUNZCaXKhvyxZr3bnuxXKGSIk4PfdXLCbWSBWXJEP9kRT-Rh2ZFcHdLXNRvI7Cs85VfryE_-rbHhFytDVp-fH9UBHkbZ3Lt_WF_hGdJbShTqF67exssmiCxPwMbp7PM7nXsd4Laqpe/s320/IMG_6545.JPG" width="294" border="0" /></a>We picked up in Tat Lo where we left off in Si <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Phan</span> Don - relaxing on the front porch of our hut overlooking the river. Except now we had traded the sweltering heat of the valley for the cool breezes of the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">Bolaven</span> Plateau, and the wide, slowly meandering Mekong for a more agile network of rivers that tumble over the highlands in a series of waterfalls.<br /><br />Although we were joined by a handful of travelers on the long and sweaty bus ride to Tat Lo, the place seems to have retained much of its traditional character. There are no <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Internet</span> cafes or western-style restaurants<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgraPlNQYT6AxPkRKwowbIeAKnV343m9nmWRtLcbYZmtKcBbVtdSGxniD5EGdSlY7dhd-Q0BB6SdO87gHeEfj3H4kYiPUYOeurnSrrCwBCQiqGLORXnNRb5VmbiS9FBUUwFta4DrVWw344U/s1600-h/IMG_6521.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5254944676861109090" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="213" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgraPlNQYT6AxPkRKwowbIeAKnV343m9nmWRtLcbYZmtKcBbVtdSGxniD5EGdSlY7dhd-Q0BB6SdO87gHeEfj3H4kYiPUYOeurnSrrCwBCQiqGLORXnNRb5VmbiS9FBUUwFta4DrVWw344U/s320/IMG_6521.JPG" width="296" border="0" /></a> - just a few local shops, a collection of huts for travelers and a small temple, which was blasting music at all hours of the day and night for a local festival while we were there.<br /><br />The area is famous for two things: waterfalls and coffee. In our short time there, we got a small taste of each. There were two waterfalls within walking distance of our hut, where we could take a refreshing dip or watch the local boys slip down naturally carved <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">water slides</span> into swirling water below. A short hike beyond the waterfalls b<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGKyRLitc9J1Gwfa62XVhCxMFnnAUx4551FQOPYm9dFXqpXkF-gtNho9nGlBZYtmYdP7w0LM2JmSZcKFdkkWoJ1DRYQ3GYi2akmOk78fJCnN3jBZdbJMJu93Jkpx6eGTesxIqqJQvoEbFO/s1600-h/IMG_6549.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5254946596029195746" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="218" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGKyRLitc9J1Gwfa62XVhCxMFnnAUx4551FQOPYm9dFXqpXkF-gtNho9nGlBZYtmYdP7w0LM2JmSZcKFdkkWoJ1DRYQ3GYi2akmOk78fJCnN3jBZdbJMJu93Jkpx6eGTesxIqqJQvoEbFO/s320/IMG_6549.JPG" width="299" border="0" /></a>rought us to small tracts of farmland clear-cut from the thick forest. In addition to growing coffee, the local tribal people plant a wide range of other crops to support their small villages.<br /><br />The Plateau was an incredibly pleasant detour and we wish we had more time to explore the area, but we now had a flight to New Zealand booked and not much leeway in our schedule. So, we headed back to <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">Pakse</span> to try to arrange transport up north. It worked out that we had an extra day in the city, so we rented a fantastic hotel room (a big splurge at $17 a night!) and took advantage of "big city" amenities, like an ATM.<br /><br />There isn't too much to do in <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">Pakse</span>, but it's a <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4_JzmKNJKac-Se2ZW_3YsuhCfUUB5ioYUMpdkDo7tkuGZNsrWErwYzRzLgDoeAtRTlSO_axpSM0XxAnzfArhwxPRouRDL2lodou6fd_t4UjQ-i6XsbiuXDmt0qw4EiiM4PaJbmSCGSSPl/s1600-h/IMG_6624.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5254945748927975090" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="213" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4_JzmKNJKac-Se2ZW_3YsuhCfUUB5ioYUMpdkDo7tkuGZNsrWErwYzRzLgDoeAtRTlSO_axpSM0XxAnzfArhwxPRouRDL2lodou6fd_t4UjQ-i6XsbiuXDmt0qw4EiiM4PaJbmSCGSSPl/s320/IMG_6624.JPG" width="292" border="0" /></a>pleasant enough place if you can find somewhere to hide from the mid-day sun. We picked a local "healing center", where we got traditional Laos-style massages laying on mattresses on the floor. It was a far cry from a spa-like setting and the masseuses kept laughing at us, but at least there was air conditioning! This riverside city also boasts a few pretty temples, a small market and, of course, a couple of excellent coffee shops. By 10 pm we were exhausted and ready to sleep the night away on our overnight bus to Vientiane.Jen Wagnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15242788047144327120noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6448455540054546810.post-68609860948390153692008-08-03T14:34:00.000-07:002008-10-08T16:16:20.090-07:00ChampasakThe town of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Champasak</span> is on the west bank of the river, the opposite side of the paved "highway" that runs north to south along the Lao/Thai border. This means you need to board a rickety old ferry t<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQwEvbgpG5R5klXscixyn_qM5pf2gVLNFXy50sjsUskuKRdVj-O-4WAIMdd52L7SAaVxPOzLQgGVmHJZ3iXV1Rn9fiQKB1nGaly-kBPp70hWPrBufPvx8ZEVM_rd24qDxvChgPDHuXHjPN/s1600-h/IMG_6454.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5254923450606795538" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="216" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQwEvbgpG5R5klXscixyn_qM5pf2gVLNFXy50sjsUskuKRdVj-O-4WAIMdd52L7SAaVxPOzLQgGVmHJZ3iXV1Rn9fiQKB1nGaly-kBPp70hWPrBufPvx8ZEVM_rd24qDxvChgPDHuXHjPN/s320/IMG_6454.JPG" width="288" border="0" /></a>o get across the river, and then walk (or flag down a ride) another couple of kilometers south to the town. Its a bit out of the way, but your efforts are rewarded with a quiet and peaceful village and some <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">gorgeous</span> views over the river.<br /><br />The area was once the capital of the Lao Kingdom and Wat <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Phu</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">Champasak</span> is set in kingly fashion on the side of a mountain about 5 kilometers south of town. The ruins are relatively h<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoUzq3ssrLhWFFgNe-1GWnGfijGJ4HWee4i5tO4uqnZ9CmesDn5iaGBuyHiBw4xrr2D_6dR6bj4xOnVDPTdYD5y6N24jOyyL6gBYllBkbPMdH3UxHujOCYHeQ1i2-Kh6yNg5mk5rEQzs09/s1600-h/IMG_6500.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5254924630246039490" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="211" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoUzq3ssrLhWFFgNe-1GWnGfijGJ4HWee4i5tO4uqnZ9CmesDn5iaGBuyHiBw4xrr2D_6dR6bj4xOnVDPTdYD5y6N24jOyyL6gBYllBkbPMdH3UxHujOCYHeQ1i2-Kh6yNg5mk5rEQzs09/s320/IMG_6500.JPG" width="294" border="0" /></a>umble in comparison to those at Angkor, but beautiful their own right.<br /><br /><br />We walked along a narrow causeway skirted by two rectangular reservoirs until we reached two crumbling <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">pavilions</span> and finally the stairway that leads up to the main temple. The climb to the top was brutal (April is the hottest time of the year in Laos!), but we were <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK_ywuSz_4pi5_4Ft7TziWN7uPu0Mczx_63nPj14oQ3XZqQLNYI0_i0sCODB0uYaqtgYDkM0H-hECVixPKI5LMt4VwRxW69T7pL3CITJJR2R9FV3IHnF2X8-WUZCyX07SmcTbki3jNSYWj/s1600-h/IMG_6490.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5254924351956378514" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="211" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK_ywuSz_4pi5_4Ft7TziWN7uPu0Mczx_63nPj14oQ3XZqQLNYI0_i0sCODB0uYaqtgYDkM0H-hECVixPKI5LMt4VwRxW69T7pL3CITJJR2R9FV3IHnF2X8-WUZCyX07SmcTbki3jNSYWj/s320/IMG_6490.JPG" width="290" border="0" /></a>emboldened by the laughter of the Buddhist pilgrims who accompanied us and comforted by the shade and delicate fragrance offered by the pretty yellow and white <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">frangipani</span> trees lining the steps.<br /><br />The temple at the top exhibited an interesting mix of Hindu and Buddhist i<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigiVFKiLqXFLtT7RbEtCanNX6FSL3p63-KeC6AUesiiCBFnBOJjQTqb_He6418MS5fn2VWiEek7jZ1vCoBAqnYyYNhlu2xxXMAS9EuBO3FO4a_bNIu5m1gSnvU5tt470eBUm7CzZ1HhCh9/s1600-h/IMG_6452.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5254923879178979250" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="215" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigiVFKiLqXFLtT7RbEtCanNX6FSL3p63-KeC6AUesiiCBFnBOJjQTqb_He6418MS5fn2VWiEek7jZ1vCoBAqnYyYNhlu2xxXMAS9EuBO3FO4a_bNIu5m1gSnvU5tt470eBUm7CzZ1HhCh9/s320/IMG_6452.JPG" width="292" border="0" /></a>nfluence and there were a couple of fascinating rock-carved <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">sculptures</span> in the surrounding thicket, including a table shaped like a crocodile that <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">archaeologists</span> suspect may have been used for human sacrifices. We dipped our hands in the spring water that emerged from a cave in the mountain, hoping to benefit from its reputed magical properties. After drinking in a few last glimpses of the golden countryside that unfolded below us, we headed back to our motorbike and enjoyed a tranquil ride home in the soft light of dusk.Jen Wagnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15242788047144327120noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6448455540054546810.post-41288923625314258692008-07-11T14:40:00.000-07:002008-10-08T15:46:25.976-07:00Si Phan Don<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqM-Ib6cGnAVD1p80W8z7zSsxyl9lnsEqcMx25Clg_80e3IRXseD3DAhc9mQOM5Ac-oNaqnbpVENifeJ-C7tps3YDXg4XbK52SLLoCpH-e5Ey7RN4B6d9T6iCQphWU1okvOv8wIaEiNokY/s1600-h/IMG_6340.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5254918053271048290" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="218" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqM-Ib6cGnAVD1p80W8z7zSsxyl9lnsEqcMx25Clg_80e3IRXseD3DAhc9mQOM5Ac-oNaqnbpVENifeJ-C7tps3YDXg4XbK52SLLoCpH-e5Ey7RN4B6d9T6iCQphWU1okvOv8wIaEiNokY/s320/IMG_6340.JPG" width="302" border="0" /></a> If you come to Si Phan Don, you had better be ready to relax. Because there isn't much else to do here among the "1,000 islands" that fringe the border between Cambodia and Laos. But, this remoteness, this detachment from the hustle and bustle of modern life, is exactly why travelers come here and why many find themselves delaying their departure day after day, until they finally run out of kip and are forced to make their way to a town with an ATM.<br /><div><div><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi37gybanrEGPI7RArSI_IiI7e9vt_YInWKnxdJFnI7yq083MJxddnXDRDdtiTAoGfQohE1xYi-82EaFFgXNj4IUvdLyTBc2Kcvi9Rvfjr-x8Hf65nSoT0vX5RyynvrKQngpfbWe-r3dDmX/s1600-h/IMG_6296.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5254915930094124850" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="216" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi37gybanrEGPI7RArSI_IiI7e9vt_YInWKnxdJFnI7yq083MJxddnXDRDdtiTAoGfQohE1xYi-82EaFFgXNj4IUvdLyTBc2Kcvi9Rvfjr-x8Hf65nSoT0vX5RyynvrKQngpfbWe-r3dDmX/s320/IMG_6296.JPG" width="289" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div>Like emeralds glistening in the warm sun, land masses of varying shapes and sizes emerge from the milky Mekong River (along with the occasional bathing water buffalo). During the rainy season, many of the islands disappear, but in the dry season, they appear once again, like old familiar friends. The three largest islands are inhabited<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHhbCN9MjE_UEoQR0sOcV2zBuA1igheb9aSmybgvsp1P_fRRJbclhRRNJ7-EtIgDtlvlo2WQ0BDa92Hq2dv_28NHUX0nSh5RlSxUgUkiSqkeKzFadMe8p3emKr92v_qa6PmCv6eHLHsrhm/s1600-h/IMG_6306.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5254916268484149906" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="212" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHhbCN9MjE_UEoQR0sOcV2zBuA1igheb9aSmybgvsp1P_fRRJbclhRRNJ7-EtIgDtlvlo2WQ0BDa92Hq2dv_28NHUX0nSh5RlSxUgUkiSqkeKzFadMe8p3emKr92v_qa6PmCv6eHLHsrhm/s320/IMG_6306.JPG" width="298" border="0" /></a>, including the two we visited, Don Dhet and Don Khon. Don Dhet and Don Khon have no electricity and no cars, and when you step off the narrow long boat you've hired from the mainland, it feels like you've stepped back in time.<br /></div><br /><br /><div>Our day would start when we awoke to the sounds of children playing in the Mekong River that slowly flowed beneath our hut. We'd enjoy a lazy breakfast of rice soup and fresh fruit and then watch the local men expectantly throw out their fishing nets while their wives, mothers and da<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDgrr1XnJ7qQ_NmC-pJZwnjnoOI4X1UUOOrt1KtnIEesIFQ9wJjMrtDF8kxdb_8UJFH4MWyMqIMhyphenhyphengktDM69lh77n7HQTnuEdTWuPlGyIfvYGePKwCWgxgN4hwc5vyejyF2HqzlGCoR3T6/s1600-h/IMG_6331.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5254916682486261730" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="217" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDgrr1XnJ7qQ_NmC-pJZwnjnoOI4X1UUOOrt1KtnIEesIFQ9wJjMrtDF8kxdb_8UJFH4MWyMqIMhyphenhyphengktDM69lh77n7HQTnuEdTWuPlGyIfvYGePKwCWgxgN4hwc5vyejyF2HqzlGCoR3T6/s320/IMG_6331.JPG" width="293" border="0" /></a>ughters waded out into the river to wash their families' clothes. If we felt ambitious, we'd rent bikes and ride beneath the shade of palm trees to the islands' biggest waterfall, Tat Samphamit, passing over an elegant arched railway bridge built and long abandoned by the French. We would gr<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiT3tfY-INeMHNRY5L1pj-yVpN1-nGcQ5uYDagH88f9a6MpqGsyM8f_i19R5xKaaFE7_B1Pi8Wc4lGO5tRf8Ms4bQS-JLWEzVF9kbDMSyG20CkD4-IH_yJJ2UUOYPsG70CSQrXDiFgtjhU/s1600-h/IMG_6357.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5254916942181260562" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="206" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiT3tfY-INeMHNRY5L1pj-yVpN1-nGcQ5uYDagH88f9a6MpqGsyM8f_i19R5xKaaFE7_B1Pi8Wc4lGO5tRf8Ms4bQS-JLWEzVF9kbDMSyG20CkD4-IH_yJJ2UUOYPsG70CSQrXDiFgtjhU/s320/IMG_6357.JPG" width="297" border="0" /></a>eet each evening by taking position in our hammocks and drinking a Beer Lao as we watched the red sun dipped slowly behind horizon. </div><br /><br /><div>I think this is what is meant by the word "idyllic". Thanks to Chris and Lani for so highly recommending this stop over! </div></div></div></div></div>Jen Wagnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15242788047144327120noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6448455540054546810.post-89384165767259761572008-06-25T09:43:00.000-07:002008-12-11T07:24:13.070-08:00Kratie<div>On our way to Laos we made a short pit stop in <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Kratie</span>, a small town situated on the Mekong. It was a sleepy place to enjoy a sunset beer on the river, with a small market and a few simple restaurants and food stalls.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF6hoQWJ7jktLhWMXEXp1gDr9KTrMCmIeTtvCvVbZu5aVCXO7mWU-xRGsveyRm-VXzRpIoPKN9HstroWg0aEvRkm0jM-zXQllHdvU1s6Va55hWQi2rDic7ewYDlnRllkgQxNSr-nbiIvCs/s1600-h/IMG_6270.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF6hoQWJ7jktLhWMXEXp1gDr9KTrMCmIeTtvCvVbZu5aVCXO7mWU-xRGsveyRm-VXzRpIoPKN9HstroWg0aEvRkm0jM-zXQllHdvU1s6Va55hWQi2rDic7ewYDlnRllkgQxNSr-nbiIvCs/s320/IMG_6270.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5217521834535553826" border="0" /></a></div><br /><div><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">Kratie</span> is famous for the flat-nosed <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Irrawady</span> dolphins that spend their time just north of here, so we rented a motorbike to drive up <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">to Kampi</span> where you can hire a boat to see them up close. Our ride under the shade of green trees and past simple stilt huts was fantastic. We smiles and waved to the villagers as we went by, watching children transport water from the communal well while their elders gathered on their porches to <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">chat</span> with neighbors. We found it very interesting that they choose to orient their homes and lives toward the road, rather than the luscious views of the river behind them. It speaks strongly about the community-orientation of rural life in Cambodia in comparison to the privacy and solitude favored in our modern urban society. We passed by several wedding celebrations, and marveled at the beauty of the women in traditional make-up wearing lace blouses and colorful silk sarongs arriving on motorbikes, and were honored when we got a few shouts to stop and join in with the festivities.</div><br /><div>We felt very lucky to see the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">Irrawady</span> dolphins, as they are e<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi26TprLHP_sHDVjPOu37KMJP7eYhgtLZibLjWlEHnzdmlu0gObMKLoRn4gSSo_yozq4fn4_NFkrPVBgd0cv23kxp6sr3cMaJbhkcSxG8NZU0dl7-y1eJ5_I7QJIKO07GVX1Y53dbWo5m-v/s1600-h/IMG_6251.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 189px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi26TprLHP_sHDVjPOu37KMJP7eYhgtLZibLjWlEHnzdmlu0gObMKLoRn4gSSo_yozq4fn4_NFkrPVBgd0cv23kxp6sr3cMaJbhkcSxG8NZU0dl7-y1eJ5_I7QJIKO07GVX1Y53dbWo5m-v/s320/IMG_6251.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5217522009045642754" border="0" /></a>xtremely rare and pretty much on the brink of extinction. It is estimated that there are fewer than 100 left, and although there are education and conservation campaigns underway, we were shocked and disheartened to see local fisherman casting nets (which can be responsible for drowning these air-breathing mammals) literally within a few hundred meters of the area where they are known to congregate. Unfortunately, the fate of the dolphins may be a case of too little, too late. </div>Jen Wagnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15242788047144327120noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6448455540054546810.post-31713289156866739752008-06-25T09:39:00.000-07:002008-12-11T07:24:15.031-08:00Siem ReapSiem Riep is a very touristy town, but it has every reason to be since it’s just about as close as you can<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVQkXpUeek7gNFVAUwb92YNhZYhoRGENSv-YwORwbw-RTxh33DlMq3r598YimfSc1D5599QVwJXTA-QqCOavHYXeLwRiOvBJcrUmv-LeTU0XkcwBXzAfiPMP0g9qBxjWXoN05CL08GzyZU/s1600-h/IMG_5644.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 296px; height: 222px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVQkXpUeek7gNFVAUwb92YNhZYhoRGENSv-YwORwbw-RTxh33DlMq3r598YimfSc1D5599QVwJXTA-QqCOavHYXeLwRiOvBJcrUmv-LeTU0XkcwBXzAfiPMP0g9qBxjWXoN05CL08GzyZU/s320/IMG_5644.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5217206404724242866" border="0" /></a> get to the temples of Angkor without a time machine. It certainly came in handy that it had one of those ubiquitous Irish pubs, since it was St. Patrick’s day and we were in serious need of some green beer. We also appreciated the profusion of air conditioning given the 100 degree heat, so we really can’t complain about these conveniences of home.<br /><br /><div>In reality, you would need weeks, maybe years, to properly explore the temples of Angkor and all of their winding caverns and passageways. We had only three days, so we hired a tuk tuk driver to make the most of our time. We started out visiting the temples around Angk<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhPB0gh6smMD1S8_1wMycwMQctuIVfkLrcFUHUQpgchRh7KwVu6YEx6vwsjpscZjldiwIiNlGFWlNuhJ6aUEi3A-R7rqXhTxjvRK1w0doHq6f3Q-qf5l70rnyXDwlIFVvfTkQHgFO0Igxk/s1600-h/IMG_6209.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 306px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhPB0gh6smMD1S8_1wMycwMQctuIVfkLrcFUHUQpgchRh7KwVu6YEx6vwsjpscZjldiwIiNlGFWlNuhJ6aUEi3A-R7rqXhTxjvRK1w0doHq6f3Q-qf5l70rnyXDwlIFVvfTkQHgFO0Igxk/s320/IMG_6209.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5217207056380946626" border="0" /></a>or Wat and then travelled further afield.</div><div><br />Not surprisingly, Angkor Wat was a highlight. It is the largest religious structure in the world and represents the pinnacle of Khmer architectural design. The carved bas-relief murals that line the halls are intricate and evocative and the five central towers reaching skyward are truly magnificent, especially at dawn or dusk when they light up like shimmering gold. But, Angkor is so much more than Angkor Wat. The story that unravels as you visit different sites gives you a much greater appreciation for the complexity and resilience of the Khmers than any single structure could.</div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj827Bsf4bYEnPriOW1wvJSIvkTsybavBw9OU_g0suG1xTqT47XoH8DujPZba2WLYCFyJr5hzt2KeTvAxQenFsTq8uSa7a5pXlGx0-n1LQXUZEkf2zeihE6-zGQ0EAQfSk6JJVF7aLsg5D/s1600-h/IMG_5865.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 299px; height: 237px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj827Bsf4bYEnPriOW1wvJSIvkTsybavBw9OU_g0suG1xTqT47XoH8DujPZba2WLYCFyJr5hzt2KeTvAxQenFsTq8uSa7a5pXlGx0-n1LQXUZEkf2zeihE6-zGQ0EAQfSk6JJVF7aLsg5D/s320/IMG_5865.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5217206808783165730" border="0" /></a><div>The first thing that struck us was the sheer magnitude of the ruins. Each consecutive king wanted to honor the gods anew and commissioned a state temple to be built, thus moving the center of the kingdom over and over again. Our awe for the scope and power of the civilization was compounded when we contemplated the fact that while only religious structures remain, thousands of people lived in impermanent wooden settlements radiating out from the main temples at one point in time.</div><br /><div>The temples exhibit an amazing diversity of styles. You can see the progression through the ages of different building techniques, materials and<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguAcP8hH8EU5SJMFNr3e_yBGzXFkVPFol3a1xOpcAytqdVCp3BZbRhFqTloZZRTj6aMc6oSd5O55oUlntr6lVM14UJZZhk2avR2KDL5Jfnn3xiVf-DJsDTfQNIFmJXfzVKYdSY_eveTH4T/s1600-h/IMG_6027.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 293px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguAcP8hH8EU5SJMFNr3e_yBGzXFkVPFol3a1xOpcAytqdVCp3BZbRhFqTloZZRTj6aMc6oSd5O55oUlntr6lVM14UJZZhk2avR2KDL5Jfnn3xiVf-DJsDTfQNIFmJXfzVKYdSY_eveTH4T/s320/IMG_6027.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5217206981475221522" border="0" /></a> decorative themes, with each generation bringing something innovative to the traditional design. Another transformation you notice is a shift in religious beliefs. The Khmer’s were heavily influenced by their contact with Indian traders who came through the area and originally adopted a mix of Hindu and local deities, but later were converted by Buddhist teachings. In the end, sentiments swung back to Hinduism, evidenced by the thousands of Buddah images that were defaced or altered into less controversial figures.</div><br /><div>Some of the temples were impressive due to their<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcDkuslvFxhrv_Ms8NMSxTDuRZmd5WtSOdS6nlAbQM5zL-6OBcM5bNV12VJAmiw1NtTlY6BfXfykwM2qSna49ki0tZ6kx7lKE5TXwLlBjmtqQsQKrmuapvAunai6N830G6VoIjNKsaDzxO/s1600-h/IMG_5763.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 288px; height: 216px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcDkuslvFxhrv_Ms8NMSxTDuRZmd5WtSOdS6nlAbQM5zL-6OBcM5bNV12VJAmiw1NtTlY6BfXfykwM2qSna49ki0tZ6kx7lKE5TXwLlBjmtqQsQKrmuapvAunai6N830G6VoIjNKsaDzxO/s320/IMG_5763.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5217206617229532450" border="0" /></a> size or stature, such as the pyramid-shaped “mountain temples” of Pre Rup and Ta Keo, which were intended to emulate the sacred Mount Meru. Others were notable because of the uniqueness of the decoration. Two of our favorite structures, the Bayon and Banteay Srei, were actually quite modest in size.</div><br /><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh42UFij0PbssPzwRWni8tkgqlmbS9HSnDoY0KXuA59kIQpy0cB_8t1dG-mo3YqxnSCgDksHwM6BKViJACt67VhEnHC2Qna4m4gpvJaU_loWbA-488g5mLaAVgw67UYkfvTIGjIauFi4kne/s1600-h/IMG_5791.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 307px; height: 248px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh42UFij0PbssPzwRWni8tkgqlmbS9HSnDoY0KXuA59kIQpy0cB_8t1dG-mo3YqxnSCgDksHwM6BKViJACt67VhEnHC2Qna4m4gpvJaU_loWbA-488g5mLaAVgw67UYkfvTIGjIauFi4kne/s320/IMG_5791.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5217206727276770370" border="0" /></a>The Bayon was built out of a cluster of towers carved with faces on all four sides. The faces evoke a strange sense of mystery and wonder, especially when navigating the maze-like inner chambers. The Bayon also has some fine bas-relief carvings portraying great battles and other historical events, as well as more obscure images from Hindu mythology.</div><br /><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuihCcKS2luKa4YEA0Tj7R0niOCH6Ef1FFYhyphenhyphenKhZk2-EyKarh1R7wg3D6GJMXJjY-2i-i51OclPQQJkCZ-PQuKcKl6Ka9-mha1HjzQb5YlPNl4ftZ1zdbrfjmp9Bzd4obXKnacFYzSVwBT/s1600-h/IMG_5962.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 274px; height: 285px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuihCcKS2luKa4YEA0Tj7R0niOCH6Ef1FFYhyphenhyphenKhZk2-EyKarh1R7wg3D6GJMXJjY-2i-i51OclPQQJkCZ-PQuKcKl6Ka9-mha1HjzQb5YlPNl4ftZ1zdbrfjmp9Bzd4obXKnacFYzSVwBT/s320/IMG_5962.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5217206884942276050" border="0" /></a>Twenty-some kilometers from Angkor Wat is Banteay Srei, which has the most exquisite reliefs of all the temples we visited. It was not built by a king, but rather a counselor, and appears almost miniature in scale compared to other temples. Its beauty lies in the fact that nearly all of its surfaces are carved with rich and enigmatic images – the lion god Narasimha clawing at an enemy, a multi-headed demon shaking Mount Kailasa, Krishna and his brother firing arrows to stop the rain. It is truly a creative and artistic masterpiece.</div><br /><div>Complimenting the splendor of the temples themselves are the dramatic landscapes in which they were built. Many temples were built on hills to provide sweeping views of the surrounding area, and most contained some element of water for dramatic effect, such as a moat or lake. The env<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiufSsZ-AbBLYhQaNsUrFF8OPoN9rawmGoMZCMJS4PExGyntQhLVe26-NK7Uq3D3QpXpFKVnaWninQqr2lkYvCMaev1Vu61IKw-8Omvd0MqGDPr3hlmWWYKQrY5CNiRBwc_OBqW9bc57Xpc/s1600-h/IMG_5678.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 294px; height: 226px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiufSsZ-AbBLYhQaNsUrFF8OPoN9rawmGoMZCMJS4PExGyntQhLVe26-NK7Uq3D3QpXpFKVnaWninQqr2lkYvCMaev1Vu61IKw-8Omvd0MqGDPr3hlmWWYKQrY5CNiRBwc_OBqW9bc57Xpc/s320/IMG_5678.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5217206492548646130" border="0" /></a>ironment continues to shape them into the present day, with trees having invaded many of the structures, winding and wrapping their way around the stonework. While some of the temples have been restored, others have been left in this state of decay, providing a fantastical backdrop for movies like Tomb Raider.</div><br /><div>We absolutely loved our time in Angkor and would definitely put it in our list of “must-see” places in the world.<br /><br /></div>Jen Wagnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15242788047144327120noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6448455540054546810.post-20622408752810426352008-06-25T09:22:00.000-07:002008-12-11T07:24:16.285-08:00Phnom Penh<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Phnom</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">Penh</span> is ripe with paradox. Today it is the capital of one of the world’s poorer countries, but its museum holds the treasures of one of the most prolific civilizations in history. Tiny alleyways strewn with garbage and home to orphaned children cross avenues lined <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixWIi2uJPXyCB4ZQPcF4r6lmgRxYOrUsklftw7YVlqYJiG4z2w72ikPOfwUP5XHD3LGxmmlW-cSh71k7iuDGgi8bDjjClYIXDZ9aPlMYjkRwwIMLbGnjNbbWx0gdkW_QVujpaqFLr13HYb/s1600-h/IMG_5608.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 310px; height: 233px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixWIi2uJPXyCB4ZQPcF4r6lmgRxYOrUsklftw7YVlqYJiG4z2w72ikPOfwUP5XHD3LGxmmlW-cSh71k7iuDGgi8bDjjClYIXDZ9aPlMYjkRwwIMLbGnjNbbWx0gdkW_QVujpaqFLr13HYb/s320/IMG_5608.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5217198066513716978" border="0" /></a>with gourmet chocolate shops and bakeries frequented by tourists and international aid workers. The recent past has been plagued by horrible violence and suffering, yet its people seem to face the days ahead with humor and a strange sense of optimism.<br /><br /><div>Just about the only thing that is consistent about this place is the confusion it generates in its visitors. Your only choice is to confront the bad and embrace the good. We started with the bad and found ourselves face to face with the legacy of a woefully misguided revolution.</div><div><br />The Khmer Rouge, an ultra-Maoist regime that sprung up partly in reaction to the US bombardment of the Cambodian countryside during with the Vietnam War, took over <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Phnom</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">Penh</span> in 1975. Under the direction of a tyrant named Pol Pot, anyone deemed to be educated was seen as an enemy <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj71ik37XVfGj9FZ8xFm56UwWKQZjx742HMkhyIJBBDTWnBUoz58xlvuf88a5dLNwm5e83HPc6hTtcXPGSmh8wBgoAGIDmHR1t__eHmvKXuDyXWxQxVVi7Ltip3KoFVKgmsSgAoe7H5dfb/s1600-h/IMG_5625.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj71ik37XVfGj9FZ8xFm56UwWKQZjx742HMkhyIJBBDTWnBUoz58xlvuf88a5dLNwm5e83HPc6hTtcXPGSmh8wBgoAGIDmHR1t__eHmvKXuDyXWxQxVVi7Ltip3KoFVKgmsSgAoe7H5dfb/s320/IMG_5625.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5217198773252724066" border="0" /></a>to the regime and slated for execution in the hopes of returning the country to its agrarian roots. </div><div><br />The Killing Fields of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">Choeung</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">Ek</span> now serves as a memorial to the victims of the Khmer Rouge. Set in a quiet and seemingly peaceful setting is a tall glass <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">stupa</span> filled with the skulls of thousands of people whose lives where ended there. More subtle reminders of the genocide are shallow indentations in the ground, mass graves where bodies were found, and random piles of decaying clothing.</div><div><br />Perhaps even more powerful was our visit to the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">Tuol</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">Sleng</span> Museum, a former high school that was used to imprison and torture victims prior to them being sent to execution sites like the one at <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">Choeung</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">Ek</span>. The pictures of mangled, half-dead bodies that were taken when the city was liberated by the Vietnamese in 1979 would turn anyone’s stomach, and intake photos of incarcerated men, women and children posted among tiny cells converted from classrooms were absolutely heart-wrenching to look at given the knowledge that only a handful of them survived.<br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9aYWL52He0wRn6znNvbofWhliT7_wsndUm4rlpks4Llv4m7I-49nqemi5BNH-bBkCQRTud7alECcMHw5DTZ9tcNer0Zz-BKo46B-0JKcj7z5ulM7bNkz18lfv0nvTqs2B1oAdvgucytdd/s1600-h/IMG_5616.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9aYWL52He0wRn6znNvbofWhliT7_wsndUm4rlpks4Llv4m7I-49nqemi5BNH-bBkCQRTud7alECcMHw5DTZ9tcNer0Zz-BKo46B-0JKcj7z5ulM7bNkz18lfv0nvTqs2B1oAdvgucytdd/s320/IMG_5616.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5217198467855663266" border="0" /></a><div>Many children were orphaned as a result of the murderous campaign and a variety of programs have been developed to address the ongoing challenges. A good example is a restaurant we dined at named Friends that educates and trains street children to work in the service industry. We also met a young woman involved in a variety of different projects, including teaching free classes on the traditional <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">Apsara</span> dance form, which was nearly lost as a result of the Khmer Rouge’s efforts to eradicate all things artistic.<br /></div><br /><div><span class="blsp-spelling-error">Phnom</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13">Penh</span> is clearly a very intense place, but it has positive points as well. The Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda are glorious remnants of the Khmer kingdom before it fell into decline, while the National Museum holds thousands of <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_14">archaeological</span> treasures from Ang<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn5YQoHZb2ZRTG4Cd3LiNpgl0lpHFAFb-0SpABhjizRg8jHN0ivBZdBgyqpzVzuntB2-vk4LujY4mJ3FhY6Jm1o2HrT8otPSlNWPEi46MlnTx8HtR1mXGG8iLy8TIy8bvUID9LbtZqVgtL/s1600-h/IMG_5628.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 298px; height: 223px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn5YQoHZb2ZRTG4Cd3LiNpgl0lpHFAFb-0SpABhjizRg8jHN0ivBZdBgyqpzVzuntB2-vk4LujY4mJ3FhY6Jm1o2HrT8otPSlNWPEi46MlnTx8HtR1mXGG8iLy8TIy8bvUID9LbtZqVgtL/s320/IMG_5628.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5217198932352623634" border="0" /></a>kor. The city also has some great Art Deco architecture, like the Central Market, which thankfully survived Pol Pot’s destruction. <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_15">Phnom</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_16">Penh</span> is gradually coming into its own as a modern center of commerce and culture as well, and has a busting riverfront with cafes and restaurants and some fun nightspots where you can get your groove on with a truly international crowd.<br /></div><br /><div>We leave with a heavy heart, but wish the city and its people well on the road to recovery. </div>Jen Wagnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15242788047144327120noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6448455540054546810.post-66224486688108523922008-06-13T23:02:00.000-07:002008-12-11T07:24:16.847-08:00Mekong Delta to Cambodia<div><div>We said goodbye to Sue and left Phu Quoc Island a few days later for the Mekong Delta. Since we had been flying from city to city, this was our first experience with local transport and we suddenly realized why several people we met in Thailand had <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2_ZMcyaMhRbz5xd8fSinYf3xzujpO4MZcFuBwnrdT9YEwuO6sOT6XnQOmThCnXoWtQQnF4KdmeN02N2TDO7G3RU8-vaPwJQeV3vpa_2fW69wXz27GQmFrXU2Bk-g7qq4OADTx1mykyFIG/s1600-h/IMG_5570.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5212273771455662722" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="217" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2_ZMcyaMhRbz5xd8fSinYf3xzujpO4MZcFuBwnrdT9YEwuO6sOT6XnQOmThCnXoWtQQnF4KdmeN02N2TDO7G3RU8-vaPwJQeV3vpa_2fW69wXz27GQmFrXU2Bk-g7qq4OADTx1mykyFIG/s320/IMG_5570.JPG" width="296" border="0" /></a>warned us that “everyone in Vietnam tries to rip you off”. We were overcharged for a motorbike ride to the so-called bus station, a derelict gas station where we found two rickety old buses and several people colluding to charge us four times the local fare while our motorbike drivers waited to receive a commission. We discussed the price for about an hour when some other tourists showed up. With greater leverage we were able to get the price down to a more reasonable (albeit still inflated price) and at last were on the road to Chao Doc, the last city before reaching the Cambodian border.<br /><br />The Mekong Delta is a beautiful area, with millions of people living along an intricate network of waterways. Chao Doc is a good example of the colorful local communities that have cropped up here. It has a lively market, lots of street restaurants and of course, a few requisite cafes. It also has a great vegetarian restaurant, where we got to try the veg-friendly version of several local dishes. Yum! <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbIPhimLwZs9Zj3FWlsJjAq-7ZCEdCxHWHxw2K2raGhELvSuxdzJE447wNTAeMeMe1qLfwqWIIJSqsw6MKmvVWXbqv6Ygsgd_i9UGi02V6LpBvMxW6uiw_qE31fPZnqM8iVomkhVwO-407/s1600-h/IMG_5575.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5212273863200722930" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="218" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbIPhimLwZs9Zj3FWlsJjAq-7ZCEdCxHWHxw2K2raGhELvSuxdzJE447wNTAeMeMe1qLfwqWIIJSqsw6MKmvVWXbqv6Ygsgd_i9UGi02V6LpBvMxW6uiw_qE31fPZnqM8iVomkhVwO-407/s320/IMG_5575.JPG" width="306" border="0" /></a><br /><br />As you walk down the narrow alley ways toward the river, you come across small wooden shacks on stilts and then finally huts that are actually floating on the water. From the outside these places look very modest (in fact, many look like they might collapse any minute…), but you looks can be deceiving – one held an internet café, another a set of pool tables and more than one featured big screen TVs. Clearly the locals have gotten creative in order to expand this prime waterfront real estate. </div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgom73px5YnMlc0Xf1FGVvkKImS4pqnVLfQSt7xcSRcfwFCYgIng36wJXE_KRt7QsSptt_8Krqan91bguB_x8dVx9EPNWVhlFki8IfFjlc44FF9j4BPQMWbSHSSqUABn6uaJsBEtppaj4L9/s1600-h/IMG_5584.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5212273958994501010" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgom73px5YnMlc0Xf1FGVvkKImS4pqnVLfQSt7xcSRcfwFCYgIng36wJXE_KRt7QsSptt_8Krqan91bguB_x8dVx9EPNWVhlFki8IfFjlc44FF9j4BPQMWbSHSSqUABn6uaJsBEtppaj4L9/s320/IMG_5584.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />We took the Mekong River up to the Cambodian border and crossed the border posts by boat. The Cambodian side of the border provided similar scenes of life in the Delta – shacks on stilts, rice paddies, and fishermen – but things looked a bit more neglected and noticeably less colorful, giving the you the sense that we were entering a country that hasn’t benefited as much as its neighbors from the recent economic growth in the region. We continued on to Phnom Penh, catching glimpses of the city’s former Khmer glory from the river as we arrived. </div></div>Jen Wagnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15242788047144327120noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6448455540054546810.post-54726831159900549112008-06-12T17:39:00.000-07:002008-12-11T07:24:18.265-08:00Phu Quoc IslandOh Phu Quoc, how we love thee. Let me count the ways….<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9TNi086wra-PBdStdjncYvdi4FLZsaePDahYFgB0lvvi4qGZbgvIkRIDFfhb7h14dAE1CtBvDNWdrZnF7ZPKMQbf5_aGkP3Bdah0i3PNN-SziY5VTs5MTpa0tVcKc0nBcCpreHJW0bzZN/s1600-h/IMG_5422.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211160403659769762" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="213" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9TNi086wra-PBdStdjncYvdi4FLZsaePDahYFgB0lvvi4qGZbgvIkRIDFfhb7h14dAE1CtBvDNWdrZnF7ZPKMQbf5_aGkP3Bdah0i3PNN-SziY5VTs5MTpa0tVcKc0nBcCpreHJW0bzZN/s320/IMG_5422.JPG" width="295" border="0" /></a><br />First, we love your beautiful blue waters and gently lapping waves swimming with the likes of techno-colored cuttlefish in love.<br /><br />Second, we love your long sandy beaches - the ones that we can fall out of our beds onto, as well as those that are on the far reaches of the island and provide an escape from everyone and everything.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkjY07Kh4Earui2WQ1FvFPUPckHi2Rpd4GBULQiO9hCm38Eu8f2OQyc6wa9S-BcLkMN-GLvvGpUmQWALBKB2IT1s75a0X34o4KXZB02a6beU4AnEBdW4_EtgMiChLJHZrx9WdVPQFDZ_61/s1600-h/IMG_5439.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211160706416452194" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="239" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkjY07Kh4Earui2WQ1FvFPUPckHi2Rpd4GBULQiO9hCm38Eu8f2OQyc6wa9S-BcLkMN-GLvvGpUmQWALBKB2IT1s75a0X34o4KXZB02a6beU4AnEBdW4_EtgMiChLJHZrx9WdVPQFDZ_61/s320/IMG_5439.JPG" width="280" border="0" /></a><br />Third, we love your selection of cheap restaurants serving up delicious fresh seafood, French bread and giant fish bowls of tropical colored elixir.<br /><br />Fourth, we love your massage ladies, available any time of day to rub out that last molecule of stress or anxiety (or touch up your pedicure) for a mere $4 an hour. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8hWC0PU7wN9SEOToWjMU1l67tzHbU0uFPgWftCGaxnipfIenI29n-1YhYETUqKVFD4q5iePWMp_dW_sQbU5jwOqv6qJwRwFst4RQSNvOxrtvkLM25c_SRNR6Kn1PyyvH5NtGzjEasEUhb/s1600-h/IMG_5472.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211160800391107618" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8hWC0PU7wN9SEOToWjMU1l67tzHbU0uFPgWftCGaxnipfIenI29n-1YhYETUqKVFD4q5iePWMp_dW_sQbU5jwOqv6qJwRwFst4RQSNvOxrtvkLM25c_SRNR6Kn1PyyvH5NtGzjEasEUhb/s320/IMG_5472.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Fifth, we love your winding, potholed roads and the fact that you can rent a motorbike from pretty much any local you can flag down with for a pittance to explore your green mountainous interior, pass by your fragrant peppercorn fields and, of course, to reach your remote, secluded beaches.<br /><br />Sixth, we love your iced coffees, delicious every time, whether served up by the ramshackle hut on the beach, the local joint furnished with lawn chairs or sitting on the veranda of the one four-star hotel on the island.<br /><br />Seventh, we love that you have your o<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW7dqHLFSnMdeYHHJhdu5U-Bny6gRzmW5Hs9sPUJINAlvL_33d1AU-Q8qUFvYfFpClaaQWok2TkHLwjDEk44jlzuL_cME08wxqJ89ppbqvhxsBP1DbYiWgnp0bt_LMlQ_UDXZhZajNmiMz/s1600-h/IMG_5396.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211160281868575426" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="283" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW7dqHLFSnMdeYHHJhdu5U-Bny6gRzmW5Hs9sPUJINAlvL_33d1AU-Q8qUFvYfFpClaaQWok2TkHLwjDEk44jlzuL_cME08wxqJ89ppbqvhxsBP1DbYiWgnp0bt_LMlQ_UDXZhZajNmiMz/s320/IMG_5396.JPG" width="217" border="0" /></a>wn special breed of dog that boldly flaunts a mohawk along its spine. (We especially love the puppies that play in the surf!)<br /><br />Eight, we love your famous fish sauce factory – or at least the fresh and delicious cuisine that you season all over the world.<br /><br />Ninth, we love your lively market and the fascinating scenes that play out there every day, like the young girl laughing as she learns to end the life of a squirming fish by bashing its head with end of a large cleaver or Sue trying to navigate her motorbikes through the throngs of shoppers without hitting anyone.<br /><br />Tenth, we love that you entertained us for ten full days – the longest we’ve manage to stay anywhere on this trip yet! What a perfect place to unwind and recuperate. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvUxgyzTR-CjcI3f3ghxyYjaHGXTkGWvS2CV8GEIgwu5ZMIteSr77K2xC6AmcHDmelm_wtRejjA0leUubALYVICpRBC6ZowNVtW3zCfAvIqAQyLIKZggHvFOXyh9W02orHfECkRnvH5HpY/s1600-h/IMG_5520.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5211160885823761890" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 395px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 270px" height="210" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvUxgyzTR-CjcI3f3ghxyYjaHGXTkGWvS2CV8GEIgwu5ZMIteSr77K2xC6AmcHDmelm_wtRejjA0leUubALYVICpRBC6ZowNVtW3zCfAvIqAQyLIKZggHvFOXyh9W02orHfECkRnvH5HpY/s320/IMG_5520.JPG" width="293" border="0" /></a>The GILhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11593548266095732715noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6448455540054546810.post-34230093380514816462008-05-25T02:42:00.000-07:002008-12-11T07:24:21.167-08:00Ho Chi Min City (AKA Saigon)<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdoSnaIsnhzXCXKu5r7sDRtp6GSqDaYG_dBmyQ-3zeo_zSFhyphenhyphenxO2g00IhAHj_NVWwEXRTTTbH2pXptaWx_k9F86fjw_CLPOgBtIw9aZm4h776yje4oPv9mYT1lhyphenhyphenAUtNSW9VNl1iwsKLhc/s1600-h/IMG_5358.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204250193211680722" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="209" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdoSnaIsnhzXCXKu5r7sDRtp6GSqDaYG_dBmyQ-3zeo_zSFhyphenhyphenxO2g00IhAHj_NVWwEXRTTTbH2pXptaWx_k9F86fjw_CLPOgBtIw9aZm4h776yje4oPv9mYT1lhyphenhyphenAUtNSW9VNl1iwsKLhc/s320/IMG_5358.JPG" width="284" border="0" /></a> Saigon is quite a different place than its northern cousin, Hanoi. While Hanoi is the capital of Vietnam in a political sense, Saigon is undoubtedly the commercial center of the country. It’s big and modern, with cosmopolitan cafes and restaurants lining its boulevards and a busy lilt reminiscent of the wes<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Bwqbx0b026T2hJxOhYQVuSmClkDgPC8FX6RcFvitLsMs4r2z2NqRd0iYGFYJs_QCoS8m9_Dx6d7VYcIDfe3zM5eYmUBH2VUu1eZjO8H3QrtQN1RvgSAYnaXLCj83D5AnmNbxLLxrV_mP/s1600-h/IMG_5354.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204249901153904578" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="297" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Bwqbx0b026T2hJxOhYQVuSmClkDgPC8FX6RcFvitLsMs4r2z2NqRd0iYGFYJs_QCoS8m9_Dx6d7VYcIDfe3zM5eYmUBH2VUu1eZjO8H3QrtQN1RvgSAYnaXLCj83D5AnmNbxLLxrV_mP/s320/IMG_5354.JPG" width="223" border="0" /></a>tern powers that held sway here for so many years. It’s also steamy and hot compared to the cool, crisp air in the north – a bit of a shock to the system.<br /><br />Jen was stuck in bed nursing her knee, but Gil and Sue teamed up together to explore Saigon. We stayed in Pham Ngu Lao, the U.S. military enclave turned backpackers ghetto, which is lined with cheap eats and street side “bars” serving up beer in plastic jugs. From there, it was a short walk to the city’s best cultural and art museums, as well as a few n<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7GvSRXqhgYJyOyQqJ51tdbg_hzlbPNlYTUvozUoqmpgzFFua09nL7hjeaWvYGdSi19nW4sRtra81KiH-5dEQj_yamBDXLg_KHYVWw0gDcWD7KV_le_TOWK97FZ6aUsyhEGU-pXdV9IXma/s1600-h/IMG_2132.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204249810959591346" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 189px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 260px" height="293" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7GvSRXqhgYJyOyQqJ51tdbg_hzlbPNlYTUvozUoqmpgzFFua09nL7hjeaWvYGdSi19nW4sRtra81KiH-5dEQj_yamBDXLg_KHYVWw0gDcWD7KV_le_TOWK97FZ6aUsyhEGU-pXdV9IXma/s320/IMG_2132.JPG" width="219" border="0" /></a>ice parks – a welcome respite from the motorbike clogged streets.<br /><br />As with Hanoi, there are many sites that are historically significant to the Vietnam War. The Reunification Palace (originally built as South Vietnam’s Presidential Palace) marks the location where the Communist tanks plied into the city on the day Saigon surrendered in 1975. It has been left exactly as it was on that day. Another reminder of the co<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_5wt8eRnmcN0wiC9cA6-2CULYet3Zy2EuL4QnYPIrEF2e2QGccHh6WmIdKZ7sKoS1quxdoz_OdgPlyxvA6e6noPbDng5LVl012-jt3xkalfBHkDkXv1AVLGbAxMJTfxZfTpU1SBGl-Dud/s1600-h/IMG_5377.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204250403665078258" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="266" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_5wt8eRnmcN0wiC9cA6-2CULYet3Zy2EuL4QnYPIrEF2e2QGccHh6WmIdKZ7sKoS1quxdoz_OdgPlyxvA6e6noPbDng5LVl012-jt3xkalfBHkDkXv1AVLGbAxMJTfxZfTpU1SBGl-Dud/s320/IMG_5377.JPG" width="186" border="0" /></a>untry’s troubled history is the War Remnants Museum, which documents the atrocities of the war in heartbreaking realism, including photographs of victims of the war and children born long afterward with defects as a result of Agent Orange and other chemicals used by the US military.<br /><br />Sue and Gil also took a trip out to the Chu Chi tunnels, part of the infamous network of tunnels that reached all the way to the Cambodian border and allowed the communists to maintain control over the rural areas outside of Saigon. Guided by a former Viet Cong soldier w<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTwiYmw4flLLR-9L5LS7pJ46DwVUiWskF6KKWOPRSmZ6EdseAOrXQgloPRHQo8RNHfSq-ikzOimb3FTdgzvhwsT0X3OybVcKB7WiWl-RCmkPVaL0w2cmCv_f6HRUQ1bLjJOiG7xpo2Ox2x/s1600-h/IMG_5370.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5204250296290895842" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 191px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 268px" height="280" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTwiYmw4flLLR-9L5LS7pJ46DwVUiWskF6KKWOPRSmZ6EdseAOrXQgloPRHQo8RNHfSq-ikzOimb3FTdgzvhwsT0X3OybVcKB7WiWl-RCmkPVaL0w2cmCv_f6HRUQ1bLjJOiG7xpo2Ox2x/s320/IMG_5370.JPG" width="194" border="0" /></a>ho was clearly proud of the fact that he had a hand in defeating a global super power like the USA, they patiently listened to intricate (and often uncomforting) explanations of booby traps used to capture US soldiers and then filed into the passageways to experience the claustrophobia first hand. They passed on the opportunity to shoot off a machine gun though – the potential liability of a per-bullet pricing system just seemed too great…The GILhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11593548266095732715noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6448455540054546810.post-45636956899480535752008-05-06T02:30:00.000-07:002008-12-11T07:24:22.778-08:00Hoi An<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicFeVHc_hwjOUlXYL0JIK3auXAbzNssTpm6We3a6nszM_tvyCoRWV4u5joYAj906p1fzftNSam-GmDwhHypHpX7Ssbq3bYeehVmCaVxqobmHzvshrJaikiFCa0mqsGvVA0MZrefhHcwtkO/s1600-h/IMG_5246.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198864435148442994" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 403px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 202px" height="142" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicFeVHc_hwjOUlXYL0JIK3auXAbzNssTpm6We3a6nszM_tvyCoRWV4u5joYAj906p1fzftNSam-GmDwhHypHpX7Ssbq3bYeehVmCaVxqobmHzvshrJaikiFCa0mqsGvVA0MZrefhHcwtkO/s320/IMG_5246.JPG" width="285" border="0" /></a><br />Vietnam is an incredibly long country. Since our buddy Sue only had a couple of weeks there, we indulged in the luxury of a few plane rides that cut trips that would normally take a two of days down to two hours. One of these flights was from Hanoi to the ancient city of Hoi An on the central coast.<br /><br />Hoi An is one of those places that is so incredibly quaint you feel as if you’ve found yourself in a replica at Disney Land rather than the real thing. Having been named a<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht1ziQ69-WDgmz0tdF60B4ZsWqH6_gsNYZbMYcnDawf4P9KQTlpz7DyOfQz1Hr8o9Sv84FPzKF4ZpCv6ZlnfVqsJ472Fp6fa7TbSW_HXOzHQDHPxr5n3fw_hI7EDwNyS3qnVqDWvuDlpyb/s1600-h/IMG_5294.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198865551839940018" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="184" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht1ziQ69-WDgmz0tdF60B4ZsWqH6_gsNYZbMYcnDawf4P9KQTlpz7DyOfQz1Hr8o9Sv84FPzKF4ZpCv6ZlnfVqsJ472Fp6fa7TbSW_HXOzHQDHPxr5n3fw_hI7EDwNyS3qnVqDWvuDlpyb/s320/IMG_5294.JPG" width="286" border="0" /></a> Unesco World Heritage site a few years back, the local population has gone out of their way to preserve the unique architecture and beauty of this city that sits unassumingly besides the Thu Bon River.<br />Mingling with the Chinese and European influences seen in other parts of Vietnam, Hoi An has a strong Japanese influence, and the <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI4GhvIGVXUNCr2z2afFWc3RSgZ4OejggeUmUKB5Sezn8bAv47viqbS8EakaSXGIdun2Xa-xzBAHLcur7DjWryjgjzvrI4HsQ9ZwPxspnFZ3BKD0A7mYAFV7K34Ilm7Yh6IVxxziXK1IpZ/s1600-h/IMG_5262.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198864529637723522" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="285" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI4GhvIGVXUNCr2z2afFWc3RSgZ4OejggeUmUKB5Sezn8bAv47viqbS8EakaSXGIdun2Xa-xzBAHLcur7DjWryjgjzvrI4HsQ9ZwPxspnFZ3BKD0A7mYAFV7K34Ilm7Yh6IVxxziXK1IpZ/s320/IMG_5262.JPG" width="206" border="0" /></a>dark teak homes are interspersed with ornate temples, 19th century public halls and even a Japanese-style covered bridge. Many of the buildings have been converted into lovely cafes and restaurants and we spent many days enjoying French pastries, Vietnamese coffees and local delicacies, such as the “white rose” shrimp dumplings and cao lau flat noodles floating in a special broth made specially from water procured from the famous Bale Well.<br /><br />One of Sue’s co-workers, Bao (who is Vietnamese) happened to be traveling in<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbhkXJywxrB-xiO-kEif2_cmVM-ywpUtKE8YfGUIoEUqghIGAUf41EA1oP-EZUVuVP9HDtiCjkKJnakRfdCHcU4m71AcnXqNGR48sBjv1hk-9hUAjeTbPupYTciqQF6kuRYlCLb3o5Vuo7/s1600-h/IMG_5272.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198864615537069458" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="274" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbhkXJywxrB-xiO-kEif2_cmVM-ywpUtKE8YfGUIoEUqghIGAUf41EA1oP-EZUVuVP9HDtiCjkKJnakRfdCHcU4m71AcnXqNGR48sBjv1hk-9hUAjeTbPupYTciqQF6kuRYlCLb3o5Vuo7/s320/IMG_5272.JPG" width="210" border="0" /></a> the country at the same time and he generously explained to us the finer points of Vietnamese culture, such as having a case of beer delivered to your table upon being seated! He also took us out to an amazing seafood dinner, which was one of the culinary highlights of our time in South East Asia.<br /><br />Hoi An is almost as famous for its main trade as it is for its architecture. With hundreds of tailoring shops and locally crafted silk, no visit would be complete unless you walk away with at least one piece of clothing perfectly customized to your dimensions. But, cheap tailored clothes are kind of like potato chips – bet you can’t order just one! Of course, we stocked up. (Thanks, Sue, for lugging it all home!)<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSybbFFTgWBI41CK7smRmw_LVhTkJnv9weIMWVILwFw1H1BthCEl2vOMQ9C3giCHd7RMXj-jo-emK074zIw4La-UT3m7N-0iruzIlivfbkacyZD997QuchAeqEdDzKvWBRiGgKN7D6GHNz/s1600-h/IMG_5308.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198864744386088354" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="276" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSybbFFTgWBI41CK7smRmw_LVhTkJnv9weIMWVILwFw1H1BthCEl2vOMQ9C3giCHd7RMXj-jo-emK074zIw4La-UT3m7N-0iruzIlivfbkacyZD997QuchAeqEdDzKvWBRiGgKN7D6GHNz/s320/IMG_5308.JPG" width="200" border="0" /></a>There are also some interesting sights nearby Hoi An, including the famous and beautiful China Beach and the jungle ruins of Mai Son. Both featured prominently in the Vietnam War, the latter when the US suspected it to be a hiding place for the Vietcong and bombed it almost into complete destruction. Unfortunately, on the way to catch the bus to Mai Son, I got hit by a truck and was slammed to the ground - hard! The egg sandwich in my hand splattered all over the windshield and I was suddenly surrounded by worried Vietnamese women petting my hair and rubbing strange smelling oils on me.<br /><br />Remember that t<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi243Lpxl2yVknyHtZsmzF6U0O4iGeqpEVN5s5Ol7Jiokq2BpJ9_E7jaX51mlBbq7jfyjtpy5JwfKPZFzNfsdfTI38Jubq2tJIlB7NIXrk1TcJoxsh-141rodW_qHXme0FiDJyTaTJ2fbeh/s1600-h/IMG_5231.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5198864349249097058" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="205" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi243Lpxl2yVknyHtZsmzF6U0O4iGeqpEVN5s5Ol7Jiokq2BpJ9_E7jaX51mlBbq7jfyjtpy5JwfKPZFzNfsdfTI38Jubq2tJIlB7NIXrk1TcJoxsh-141rodW_qHXme0FiDJyTaTJ2fbeh/s320/IMG_5231.JPG" width="292" border="0" /></a>errible fortune from a few weeks back? Apparently, running across the street without looking was not the right move… but, actually, I was pretty lucky – a sprained knee and some other scrapes and bruises were the only injuries and it could have been much worse. And now we have an excuse to spend more time lying around the beach!Jen Wagnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15242788047144327120noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6448455540054546810.post-73780974597519991092008-05-04T02:46:00.000-07:002008-12-11T07:24:24.224-08:00Halong BayWe left Hanoi and headed east to Halong Bay for an overnight boat trip to take in t<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3jiZjftKyFsagoT-8NEU4paRZtUtqBUjgJPM2cXURn-aydcOh-NaN4kpjG6euiKap3-3tHp7MSDa_qnksO64SpjCxkuH4ZwJdsdDRD7ePWAGuczDj_g-jBtg-kPajeQ0XneQ230NxWAsp/s1600-h/IMG_2044.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5191612998179723522" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="191" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3jiZjftKyFsagoT-8NEU4paRZtUtqBUjgJPM2cXURn-aydcOh-NaN4kpjG6euiKap3-3tHp7MSDa_qnksO64SpjCxkuH4ZwJdsdDRD7ePWAGuczDj_g-jBtg-kPajeQ0XneQ230NxWAsp/s320/IMG_2044.JPG" width="296" border="0" /></a>his spectacular region, which has aptly been designated a Unesco World Heritage site. The drive was tiring, but it gave us the opportunity to take in the surrounding region. The rice paddies were full of farmers carefully planting individual shoots rice in what appeared to be an amazingly labor intensive process to grow this nation’s staple food source. We also passed thousands of people on motorbikes and we were constantly amazed at the cargo, be it complete families, oversized parcels or baskets full of livestock.<br /><br />When we arrived to Halong City, we were pleasantly<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTMXFGF-jEAbckAUGBm7vDHuTewE65QR2GQI3HrzgMeWJAWwqkozaLzegIG6M-NKgh7MJ8OH0DFz6mcfM-AnVCtCoCR6i9_jYHxMSA3x6uZ0DziPcChQhKITrusN-7rZ5eVUcWsMaCCJYd/s1600-h/IMG_5065.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5191613303122401554" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="216" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTMXFGF-jEAbckAUGBm7vDHuTewE65QR2GQI3HrzgMeWJAWwqkozaLzegIG6M-NKgh7MJ8OH0DFz6mcfM-AnVCtCoCR6i9_jYHxMSA3x6uZ0DziPcChQhKITrusN-7rZ5eVUcWsMaCCJYd/s320/IMG_5065.JPG" width="295" border="0" /></a> surprised by the comfort of our boat. After waiting a bit to depart, we headed out into the Gulf of Tonkin to navigate through a maze of thousands of limestone pinnacles. Legend has it that the area was created by the thumping tail of a dragon who descended from the nearby mountains and the number of secret caves and hidden grottos in the region certainly make it seem like a perfect habitat for a mythical creature.<br /><br />Our first stop was on<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQixhYlPvuYm1lvNmZz4xsGw6LxB5N3zkuJM9tjTT947YKD2MEAwYZmZChwg-0qLz805FShEV8NFWGas-wpb4yRxknoxjEXLoK-NmF3Sn-HAu_piwpkDyUAf0u2fHzGh7uslB-y2VwmRG9/s1600-h/IMG_5052.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5196459250398508722" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 230px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 173px" height="210" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQixhYlPvuYm1lvNmZz4xsGw6LxB5N3zkuJM9tjTT947YKD2MEAwYZmZChwg-0qLz805FShEV8NFWGas-wpb4yRxknoxjEXLoK-NmF3Sn-HAu_piwpkDyUAf0u2fHzGh7uslB-y2VwmRG9/s320/IMG_5052.JPG" width="277" border="0" /></a>e of those caves, seductively named the Surprise Cave. It was a lovely deep cave full of unspoiled stalactites and stalagmites, some of which resembled dragons, turtles and other “surprising” objects – we’ll let your imagination run wild from the picture…<br /><br />Outside of the caves, floating vendors rowed from one boat to the next selling their wares to tourists. These women not only make their living on the sea, but also make their homes there, with small floating cabins and fish farms sprinkled throughout the bay.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibXTIqAhu10NBfH96bIAd-H1PfzADwlTKGtuaoVA2PfjhXOS7BAVuwpK12l6vZIENqB3NzbX1tebmVqfLrrK2DhIkhMFm0JoFZ972Bg1ELUvSy70eNtUhVYhxpKhVxYsLW5YnybpTDtiLD/s1600-h/IMG_5080.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5191613728324163874" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 399px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 217px" height="178" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibXTIqAhu10NBfH96bIAd-H1PfzADwlTKGtuaoVA2PfjhXOS7BAVuwpK12l6vZIENqB3NzbX1tebmVqfLrrK2DhIkhMFm0JoFZ972Bg1ELUvSy70eNtUhVYhxpKhVxYsLW5YnybpTDtiLD/s320/IMG_5080.JPG" width="320" border="0" /></a><br />From th<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhehctEoW8WDESVMU4O_D8HO5JcVKX5h02JpKlFJ5rXUeEnz7NeFZQVv8Rr8ZJUZt-ZWGBgZcxtTmWRtB3DSaDsQA_wXKl5yT5mDObTZIFAzknnjoagZR2BmqAW6ODo1IfL5TnG2t_h3RrR/s1600-h/IMG_5160.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5191616180750489922" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="288" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhehctEoW8WDESVMU4O_D8HO5JcVKX5h02JpKlFJ5rXUeEnz7NeFZQVv8Rr8ZJUZt-ZWGBgZcxtTmWRtB3DSaDsQA_wXKl5yT5mDObTZIFAzknnjoagZR2BmqAW6ODo1IfL5TnG2t_h3RrR/s320/IMG_5160.JPG" width="91" border="0" /></a>is aquatic village, we jumped into kayaks to explore the islands up close. At one point, we passed through a natural tunnel covered with mussels and other tiny sea creatures into an enclosed grotto lush with tropical vegetation. It really is a magical place and we were lucky that the weather cooperated and provided a warm and sunny winter day for us to experience it.<br /><br />In the evening, the boat anchored and we enjoyed a few drinks on the upper deck watching the sunset and then later gazing at the stars. It was not as peaceful as we might have imagined because there were many boats docked one small area of this large national park, but it was still a worthwhile experience. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn541KzUBIDW_Yk-K7DJEq2-nmGFq0SEu0-2yh8PtLi6ry7Sxhi2_SXUNg21yPphhU3jVCmDDDuggLI7oGg807kKZAXoRh3ArAwZk0f62VXZcSbAZjnN7mpSuM2AyTDZpoya0zl4stUsyc/s1600-h/IMG_5107.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5191614097691351346" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="220" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn541KzUBIDW_Yk-K7DJEq2-nmGFq0SEu0-2yh8PtLi6ry7Sxhi2_SXUNg21yPphhU3jVCmDDDuggLI7oGg807kKZAXoRh3ArAwZk0f62VXZcSbAZjnN7mpSuM2AyTDZpoya0zl4stUsyc/s320/IMG_5107.JPG" width="302" border="0" /></a><br /><br />The next morning we woke and traveled through other regions of the park, mesmerized by the many different shapes and sizes of the islands. It was a very relaxing trip, with little to do other than admire the natural beauty.Jen Wagnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15242788047144327120noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6448455540054546810.post-74780608933986680552008-04-17T01:28:00.001-07:002008-12-11T07:24:26.876-08:00Hanoi<div>We got off the plane in Hanoi and our first impressions matched up pretty well with the dreary images of communist count<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZvupeb83N-TRxL57fH_ALVeAj8idAbEyJohMFW4RTAFCYvGIgvtyNfCqNs070Fr5qpkndVtIMHmmHMfbP56EChnGhZHamz9EiyI-afpF7DHUmf_TpBC_GeYHxtn6gW6bOG8eGYET0w8gz/s1600-h/IMG_4920.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190129495768851858" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="297" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZvupeb83N-TRxL57fH_ALVeAj8idAbEyJohMFW4RTAFCYvGIgvtyNfCqNs070Fr5qpkndVtIMHmmHMfbP56EChnGhZHamz9EiyI-afpF7DHUmf_TpBC_GeYHxtn6gW6bOG8eGYET0w8gz/s320/IMG_4920.JPG" width="208" border="0" /></a>ries that have long been perpetuated in the western world. The airport was stark and grey, immigration officers dressed in drab informs the color of pea soup stared at us grimly as they stamped our passports and everyone was cloaked in heavy wool jackets to fight off the cold. But it didn’t take long for our impressions to change. On the taxi ride into the city, our sense of gloominess transformed into nostalgia when we observed women and men seeding rice in classic cone-shaped straw hats and young people riding their bikes to school. It seemed to be such a simple and peaceful existence that we couldn’t help but feel perplexed as to how our country could have seen this poor agrarian society as such a threat to our way of life for so many years.<br /><br />When we reached the center of Hanoi, o<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBcHn_HZeCW_PRxeR3ApPdyRL0r1bflXpfdNCh-0Hi6PamqGhvbRPwXSAozrKTtfsgPjoefN-GrfsT4tcQ_EiGZnJw_51oByyxfnmIntEngyGRcEXJFBy7Qs4p-7a2MICCK-VaxYMRSq6D/s1600-h/IMG_4912.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190129109221795202" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="304" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBcHn_HZeCW_PRxeR3ApPdyRL0r1bflXpfdNCh-0Hi6PamqGhvbRPwXSAozrKTtfsgPjoefN-GrfsT4tcQ_EiGZnJw_51oByyxfnmIntEngyGRcEXJFBy7Qs4p-7a2MICCK-VaxYMRSq6D/s320/IMG_4912.JPG" width="189" border="0" /></a>ur impressions were altered yet again. We had arrived in the heart of the bustling Old Quarter and were immediately stunned by the rich cultural tapestry that unfolded before us. The narrow winding streets accented with red doors and silk lanterns suggested a strong Chinese influence, while the wide boulevards, colonial buildings and imposing St. Joseph’s Cathedral across town betrayed the country’s many years under French colonial rule. The early seeds of a growing western influence can be found as well - especially the impact of the bourgeoning tourist industry.<br /><br />The smell of pho soup wafted through the air, combining with the fragrance of plum blossoms and the earthy smoke of incense to create a heady and intoxicating aroma. Our eyes were treated to sensory overload as well, especially when walking through the local markets. Beautifully adorned flowers, perfectly cut vegetables, slimy eels and skinned dogs all vied for our attention. Lest our ears be forgotten, the cacophony of hundreds of thousands of honking mini bikes and the shrill yells from cyclo conductors offering us rides kept us on constant alert.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiWyLEbSiVue9Qm57SNEZSM4xI3HuB2Rt5M6ViT04qT0CPtXSd7qP9JRpzS-Va7Xg_uXSiW5M1hONBQG-T693TMq7cXO8EArsSqWfLxvO8xwd2rssee9WrDajfW2Zspk0f6hFlq1u2kZBN/s1600-h/IMG_4993.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190130440661657042" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="221" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiWyLEbSiVue9Qm57SNEZSM4xI3HuB2Rt5M6ViT04qT0CPtXSd7qP9JRpzS-Va7Xg_uXSiW5M1hONBQG-T693TMq7cXO8EArsSqWfLxvO8xwd2rssee9WrDajfW2Zspk0f6hFlq1u2kZBN/s320/IMG_4993.JPG" width="287" border="0" /></a><br />While some parts of the city are dizzying in their intensity, there are many others that provide a tranquil respite from the chaos. The city is on the Red River and is blessed with several lovely lakes. In the early light of the rising sun, people converge on the sidewalks to undertake their daily exercise – usually a session of tai chi or a vigorous game of badminton. On Hoan Kiem lake, a picturesque red bridge leads to a pretty Buddhist temple, while across town, the Temple of Literature, an ancient university dedicated to the study of Confucism, provides peaceful courtyards for local students and tourists to gather.<br /><br />The Vietnamese are fond of their drink, and Hanoi is no exception. Cafes se<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwfTqh4VmMXseBrKpxWAhNW-usFlo50_k_20tOHPsL35hjA3ihCeTGRmYsrK5Ate8ISbXb341toEJFDEyf347n9mDKLGJ85gkVmVjNIOIcz-BGOWoB6D3VX8rXdjAd0BVDrgClN1VI3EHJ/s1600-h/IMG_4972.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190130079884404162" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 221px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 289px" height="305" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwfTqh4VmMXseBrKpxWAhNW-usFlo50_k_20tOHPsL35hjA3ihCeTGRmYsrK5Ate8ISbXb341toEJFDEyf347n9mDKLGJ85gkVmVjNIOIcz-BGOWoB6D3VX8rXdjAd0BVDrgClN1VI3EHJ/s320/IMG_4972.JPG" width="221" border="0" /></a>rve up a beverage that is uniquely Viet – an oily, herbal cup of joe, brewed one at a time at your table and served with a spoonful of condensed milk. Fear not if you’re not a fan of the bean, as local families have set up make-shift bars on several street corners to dole out something stronger. They consist of nothing more than a keg and a few stools set in the gutter, but who can pass up the opportunity to enjoy the purportedly cheapest beers on earth?<br /><br />Of course, the culture of Vietnam, and Hanoi in particular, is heavily influenced <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitr_4cuzof18wtglbP3u6s9IEmwEP4BQ8TbYYVttKY6Z5FYo7uZ_TkL9btFYmXxG3welaMeL1RcIgh9F6OAOd_L2thyphenhyphenYAOoiNSlNqc6VsL-LGQPwwMmDWr7kX89Z_xiJR9G2kgQVyZmaqS/s1600-h/IMG_4942.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190129903790745010" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="298" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitr_4cuzof18wtglbP3u6s9IEmwEP4BQ8TbYYVttKY6Z5FYo7uZ_TkL9btFYmXxG3welaMeL1RcIgh9F6OAOd_L2thyphenhyphenYAOoiNSlNqc6VsL-LGQPwwMmDWr7kX89Z_xiJR9G2kgQVyZmaqS/s320/IMG_4942.JPG" width="222" border="0" /></a>by its politics and so no visit is complete without a tour of its more historic sites. We visited the Hoa Lo Prison (affectionately known as the Hanoi Hilton), which was appropriated by the French as a place to imprison and torture independence fighters. In time, some of these same revolutionaries used it for similar purposes – first to punish opponents of the communist movement and then to hold prisoners of war. The most famous POW is, of course, our current presidential candidate, John McCain, whose photo and flight suit are prominently on display.<br /><br />The most bizarre part of our tour was undoubtedly the visit to Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum. After having our cameras, bags and hats confiscated, reading a list of peculiar rules and being set up in lines of two, we were marched through a massive building into a dark cave where his embalmed body is on display in a gl<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2BPmN80UlQYA5X-X4ivZ5Xu7PTNDmOeR5MA86PZP1BdaD1ROqELla6x4gh4WPh4BIGUepfdxXljYiaH8FWzVJ4A1gQrldP8gknlXpHHRhkhUEPrGPzADMYnNyDU2Nfu0jcLr_FTY4va6V/s1600-h/IMG_5011.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190130646820087266" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="229" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2BPmN80UlQYA5X-X4ivZ5Xu7PTNDmOeR5MA86PZP1BdaD1ROqELla6x4gh4WPh4BIGUepfdxXljYiaH8FWzVJ4A1gQrldP8gknlXpHHRhkhUEPrGPzADMYnNyDU2Nfu0jcLr_FTY4va6V/s320/IMG_5011.JPG" width="296" border="0" /></a>ass tomb. It all seemed a bit burlesque for a man who humbly asked to be cremated and have his remains spread throughout the country…<br /><br />We couldn’t help but wonder what Ho Chi Minh would think of the rest of the complex that surrounds his resting place either. He would certainly approve of the simple cabin where he planned out his communist utopia, strategically situated next to th<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJLeeokW79KUvujYv504-BSEariiF0s6j7oHYTBvakdvQzjhKjSqOmue5M5_VJ8K38ztv8GajveZDQVyXCPhPm5QJ6QJLH8lY4bVK0nDzFKDvQrYQVPx6hrWn2UNEZcfKG5s7ljkIpLCHX/s1600-h/IMG_5010.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5191564735632218354" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="194" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJLeeokW79KUvujYv504-BSEariiF0s6j7oHYTBvakdvQzjhKjSqOmue5M5_VJ8K38ztv8GajveZDQVyXCPhPm5QJ6QJLH8lY4bVK0nDzFKDvQrYQVPx6hrWn2UNEZcfKG5s7ljkIpLCHX/s320/IMG_5010.JPG" width="286" border="0" /></a>e former French Governer’s palace for comparative emphasis. But we’re not so sure how he’d feel about the Ho Chi Minh Museum, a wacky exercise in experimental art that tries to explain the ideals of the communist revolution through exhibits that includes a fanciful replication of the brain that you can walk through and a basket of larger-than-life fruit. It was an amusing place to visit, but try as we might, we just didn’t get it...<br /><br />We really enjoyed our time in Hanoi, which was made even better by our great company. We had been planning to meet a friend from San Francisco, Sue, but when she showed up a day later than we expected (word to the wise, you lose a day when you travel west over the international dateline…), we were lucky enough to come across her brother and sister sitting in the table next to us at dinner. Tim and Victoria filled in nicely for Sue until she arrived, after which the five of us traipsed around the city together, sipping lots of coffees and wondering about the strange land we found ourselves in. <img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190129719107151266" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 406px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 251px" height="230" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoGcSRlPYnB5fer_I8GvZry17x_fKYDSpIzFqOx7PDrGHyuH0B4znrgnsmMEw8Q71-1E9OFB6pM6cMbI7h9cPCCWHp79-FtKpXEk2ifW4VoGiMsciFJhMZfcE3UuRPVXgxY0xNL02MEzzB/s320/IMG_4926.JPG" width="377" border="0" /></div>The GILhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11593548266095732715noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6448455540054546810.post-76964938693800046902008-04-15T09:14:00.000-07:002008-12-11T07:24:27.899-08:00Ko Tao<div><div><div><div><div>We flew from Chiang Mai to Bangkok and then took a<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLj7vrmFBR0JdGsYBzBPqOBz2IfaZTE1t_XYc_zH6v6ktpoxP9zplW7-7WUhOdV1xJjWPFetpOr6BejJTLa8atklPWTGAcf6YT0Jw-Ae81MspfsdfKpVdZO1oLBB42b3V1PfextmlVbOVJ/s1600-h/IMG_4683.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189515972309366226" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="210" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLj7vrmFBR0JdGsYBzBPqOBz2IfaZTE1t_XYc_zH6v6ktpoxP9zplW7-7WUhOdV1xJjWPFetpOr6BejJTLa8atklPWTGAcf6YT0Jw-Ae81MspfsdfKpVdZO1oLBB42b3V1PfextmlVbOVJ/s320/IMG_4683.JPG" width="302" border="0" /></a> train down to Chumphon where caught a ferry to Ko Tao in the morning. Yes, the trip was as long as it sounds, and unfortunately it was made even longer by the fact that our train suffered from “engine broke” on the way there.<br />Ko Tao is a tiny island in the Gulf of Thailand that has become a Mecca for those seeking dive instruction on the cheap. Evidence of its growing popularity, all of the accommodation on the main beach was booked when we arrived, so we headed to the south bay. We rented some basic garden bungalows and immediately got down to business. We arrived to the island around 2:00 and by 4:30 Gil was watching his first PADI dive<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJcdsJNJJ23lgJot1os3RPGt-UNeT2w4qBI03b2LWRtrYijIH23Jjdrt4KGpfAsSdxn15tziRNoQrxVCu0_McazJCQPIt2okUEIIUpZCRILxSOgL4w3A_B0EgHhzcJAlZuCC_IJ2TDL-Kk/s1600-h/IMG_4761.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189517209259947522" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="293" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJcdsJNJJ23lgJot1os3RPGt-UNeT2w4qBI03b2LWRtrYijIH23Jjdrt4KGpfAsSdxn15tziRNoQrxVCu0_McazJCQPIt2okUEIIUpZCRILxSOgL4w3A_B0EgHhzcJAlZuCC_IJ2TDL-Kk/s320/IMG_4761.JPG" width="212" border="0" /></a> instruction video and Jen and her parents were sharing a Chang beer in a gazebo looking out at the sea.</div><br /><div>Gil’s PADI course was a success and he was rewarded on the final day with sightings of a whale shark! This majestic creature swam directly at him and even nudged him a bit with his tail. The visibility could have been better, but he also saw plenty of corals, brightly colored fish and, of course, tons of other freshly certified divers! </div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHeLS8J4BO-y1gBwp4goG1QnCJFiVwHg2CmoK-dScRXlXi204D9QtnJor7NLyumbbovnQAlw1PtV2j9fyL0ubch1L-7Ky7d_wLloefkvg2t31_lZVk8_4AIO2N6puu1mO3Mc_AmGvI7bL_/s1600-h/IMG_4744.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189516590784656882" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="220" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHeLS8J4BO-y1gBwp4goG1QnCJFiVwHg2CmoK-dScRXlXi204D9QtnJor7NLyumbbovnQAlw1PtV2j9fyL0ubch1L-7Ky7d_wLloefkvg2t31_lZVk8_4AIO2N6puu1mO3Mc_AmGvI7bL_/s320/IMG_4744.JPG" width="296" border="0" /></a><br />The weather was overcast and the sea was choppy, but that didn’t stop the rest of us from spending our days relaxing on the beach. Our favorite spot was Shark Bay, which luckily has been protected from the rampant overdevelopment occurring on other parts of the island. On our last day, we did a bit of snorkeling and true to its name, several reef sharks circled as soon as we reached the deeper water. Reef sharks are supposedly harmless, but it still gets your heart racing to see them a couple of meters away from you!</div><br /><div>We also rented motorbikes, which allowed us to get around on the island’s few paved r<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6L1nr-NE7LGYRztdvGs_NqyqUtC87XmNNGk_l_V3r7AXdayh4YHQqIjlghmjNvpFrfOhkIPUQtmEIxgB8yh16ampWz8fTBNEde7YCsVax7Oa4Jy0FKK-NPRVZpIH_EC3JBHWZKNSCTdqs/s1600-h/IMG_4700.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189516298726880738" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6L1nr-NE7LGYRztdvGs_NqyqUtC87XmNNGk_l_V3r7AXdayh4YHQqIjlghmjNvpFrfOhkIPUQtmEIxgB8yh16ampWz8fTBNEde7YCsVax7Oa4Jy0FKK-NPRVZpIH_EC3JBHWZKNSCTdqs/s320/IMG_4700.JPG" border="0" /></a>oads. We took them out to the cliffs to check out views of the small twin islands to the northeast of Ko Tao and Jen’s Dad braved the potholed dirt roads out to one of the more isolated bays in the east one morning. It was a fun way to scoot around and we only had a couple of minor mishaps…<br />All in all we had a wonderful time, but we sincerely hope that the island gets its act together and starts to invest some of the money<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmISblErvJtCSBLIHj551mou7fBLXg8OZ2kx7qs4ZWTX_6NTH5RVn11UZEqHLcS6Ymbmw9BN4P0hw6W9Tq3zp-7INbZPwHOmS8c9n1tvTYzrSn5iVyYVqvYlKBet6juobarlXK4yKklYhZ/s1600-h/IMG_4816.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5189517471252952594" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="212" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmISblErvJtCSBLIHj551mou7fBLXg8OZ2kx7qs4ZWTX_6NTH5RVn11UZEqHLcS6Ymbmw9BN4P0hw6W9Tq3zp-7INbZPwHOmS8c9n1tvTYzrSn5iVyYVqvYlKBet6juobarlXK4yKklYhZ/s320/IMG_4816.JPG" width="296" border="0" /></a> its making off of the influx of tourists to construct a much needed water treatment systems. They could also use some stricter land use regulations, as the beach in the south bay has all but been swallowed up by the ever growing hotel and bungalow operations. Of course, the reefs will need better protections too, especially given the growing numbers of people diving in this relatively small area each day. </div></div></div></div></div>Jen Wagnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15242788047144327120noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6448455540054546810.post-18801933366941162622008-04-13T19:40:00.000-07:002008-12-11T07:24:30.872-08:00Chiang MaiChiang Mai is the<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbeA-QnSSExI03jvrgt2cnnamrSk2QerJufSlGapegFFwwAit9GnieYjZD5KydB7Q5w-J1m32zz8YlKj8jCSQ9KJ-nOPNchhjfk0IjrTjherXLXK_anyA41AGMRK0IBKj3cGm68y1Jcv7W/s1600-h/IMG_4435.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188928043092305186" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 220px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 279px" height="266" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbeA-QnSSExI03jvrgt2cnnamrSk2QerJufSlGapegFFwwAit9GnieYjZD5KydB7Q5w-J1m32zz8YlKj8jCSQ9KJ-nOPNchhjfk0IjrTjherXLXK_anyA41AGMRK0IBKj3cGm68y1Jcv7W/s320/IMG_4435.JPG" width="204" border="0" /></a> unofficial capital of northern Thailand and the second largest city in the country, but it seems to be a world apart from the modern metropolis that is Bangkok. First off, it’s a bit medieval with a moat and stone wall surrounding its perimeter. The city is also more spiritually inclined, with literally hundreds of temples gracing its elegant streets. It’s full of history, but has not been lost to it and today Chiang Mai’s stylish cafes, vibrant nightlife and colorful markets draw just as many tourist as its more ancient elements.<br /><br />We began our exploration of the city with a tour of some of the most famous temples. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfILh5CqcCjjWeVxrR85fvs-O1CxW14DpTfNO-cu1Lpki5ePRlx3UL8LTy6u7pqMqI81rR0HsuygOAHWVckbGbo0HxB43YO3rJ2nV90TyRu2bqp9BccAxIgrF8crfJ4ekp6xDAbUwptW9_/s1600-h/IMG_4429.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188927772509365522" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="220" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfILh5CqcCjjWeVxrR85fvs-O1CxW14DpTfNO-cu1Lpki5ePRlx3UL8LTy6u7pqMqI81rR0HsuygOAHWVckbGbo0HxB43YO3rJ2nV90TyRu2bqp9BccAxIgrF8crfJ4ekp6xDAbUwptW9_/s320/IMG_4429.JPG" width="300" border="0" /></a>The temples in Chiang Mai are mostly from the Lanna period and are heavily influenced by the Burmese, so they are quite different from those in the south. They feature tiered roofs and are often decorated with intricate wood carvings and gilded nagas, lions and umbrellas. A few of the highlights for us included a graceful minimalist temple made entirely of dark teakwood and th<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRBY4Nhm2M3r2HKcbRvMAhiIQqpAbIfafDYKpIJyL221vKQneI_whGJcOqiKtEfnOGBrsWE9J3JIJy310uSL4lmYsj_hIJy7rOvshpQnkIf8oDm-4QNQhwAP7nmXSRi7CDJ_BQu5-cluHL/s1600-h/IMG_4407.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188927531991196930" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="212" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRBY4Nhm2M3r2HKcbRvMAhiIQqpAbIfafDYKpIJyL221vKQneI_whGJcOqiKtEfnOGBrsWE9J3JIJy310uSL4lmYsj_hIJy7rOvshpQnkIf8oDm-4QNQhwAP7nmXSRi7CDJ_BQu5-cluHL/s320/IMG_4407.JPG" width="293" border="0" /></a>e ruins of a giant chedi adorned with massive elephant sculptures. During our meanderings, we also observed some young monks dismantling a chedi to make room for a new structure – it certainly seemed a bit incongruous to see these peaceful people wielding sledgehammers and pickaxes! To preempt temple overload, we made a vital pit stop at one of the <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLSlS4Y4PGswj2be03wzXujGU5GYztWziaiBy8SQJv02LvzXh0V0YvCr2haZL26EI-plqf9crH0TXj7t0kAgHK5l9qXNWCHKwnLrB2gUlRmaTdvpghwEhlQaXNdx3m-kCk7APrwDolUC62/s1600-h/IMG_4385.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188927012300154098" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 264px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 176px" height="187" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLSlS4Y4PGswj2be03wzXujGU5GYztWziaiBy8SQJv02LvzXh0V0YvCr2haZL26EI-plqf9crH0TXj7t0kAgHK5l9qXNWCHKwnLrB2gUlRmaTdvpghwEhlQaXNdx3m-kCk7APrwDolUC62/s320/IMG_4385.JPG" width="277" border="0" /></a>wats offering Thai massage and reflexology.<br /><br />In addition to moderating your intake of temples, one has to be careful to avoid overdosing on shopping in this town, as there are opportunities aplenty. Besides the nightly craft market aimed at tourists, there are tons of local markets all around town, including a beautiful flower market. The Sunday market was our favorite, and luckily it was right around the corner from our hotel so we didn’t have to lug our purchases far.<br /><br />Chiang Mai has some decent restaurants and fun bars down by the river. Since we had long been craving some live music, we were happy to discover that Tuk, a rocking guitar player that had impressed our friends Chuck & Ja<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbc6pRWc8QnICSEGxYg07tpzsY6TOYVT4pmrXvBm2WRMzkJ5lKbKe9pyIKQHZiWHaQex3Sp8xb5BJOo5KlkrXP-9u3M5oBki1znh-bKmhyphenhyphenHvL7MboVoLQZbhWaWBieyFToIMShiCXqm1aS/s1600-h/IMG_4590.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188929215618377058" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 232px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 158px" height="208" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbc6pRWc8QnICSEGxYg07tpzsY6TOYVT4pmrXvBm2WRMzkJ5lKbKe9pyIKQHZiWHaQex3Sp8xb5BJOo5KlkrXP-9u3M5oBki1znh-bKmhyphenhyphenHvL7MboVoLQZbhWaWBieyFToIMShiCXqm1aS/s320/IMG_4590.JPG" width="286" border="0" /></a>ne many years ago, is still busting out the classic rock favorites every weekend and even seems to have an apprentice or two.<br /><br />We spent a day at the Elephant Nature Park, a home for injured and mistreated domestic elephants. It’s a very special place and we felt privileged to take part in feeding and bathing these majestic creatures. It was <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi_NzR9WYxQvtRIkRrzwN0Nb2p5GdWbm5LahcjITgDNksFgozh7UIucRq49oNb-Yby0z2XTo4YRHTPlYGBXi_xglToR8aVhJarjJEWeoyY1PaL5FdqKk53WnkMw9QT_nu6yFkjAOdt2M7r/s1600-h/IMG_4634.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188930151921247602" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="205" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi_NzR9WYxQvtRIkRrzwN0Nb2p5GdWbm5LahcjITgDNksFgozh7UIucRq49oNb-Yby0z2XTo4YRHTPlYGBXi_xglToR8aVhJarjJEWeoyY1PaL5FdqKk53WnkMw9QT_nu6yFkjAOdt2M7r/s320/IMG_4634.JPG" width="280" border="0" /></a>heart breaking to hear about the tragic histories of many of the elephants, but encouraging to learn about the new methods the Park is developing to train baby elephants using positive reinforcement. If successful, it may help to revolutionize the traditional process of “breaking”, which consists of depriving and torturing the animals until they submit.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOfNOEMvYrK43C9C76SVlkEOMZAYi0kHTThmmVieDw10xSZ3xF6rB0-pYPLL4vb2Z5ptwWYYL2wIKM-jlM_OoljW2j4ilpZK4FFOzMstvnNTup2-EWA5q9mwpfLqgZWxmVrcT85S37RVrZ/s1600-h/IMG_4535.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188928678747465026" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 397px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 292px" height="204" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOfNOEMvYrK43C9C76SVlkEOMZAYi0kHTThmmVieDw10xSZ3xF6rB0-pYPLL4vb2Z5ptwWYYL2wIKM-jlM_OoljW2j4ilpZK4FFOzMstvnNTup2-EWA5q9mwpfLqgZWxmVrcT85S37RVrZ/s320/IMG_4535.JPG" width="291" border="0" /></a>We also rented a car and spent a day in the mountains around Chiang Mai. Our first stop was the Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, one of the most important temples in the country. Legend has it that the site was selected by a divinely insp<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYyCdoHD2bRZUwWKfa_KbdAwqEbG5cSSa5k8FM9d6SZaPTXSUlD39279T5_BPb5VgcCdBsHI-wytRY9qnajVfsSwSclCSkDd2Esl1Va7FhD7Z3upYf3I4tux1DKZfz9V0vYMca_Vuq6pLj/s1600-h/IMG_4518.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188928356624917810" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="206" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYyCdoHD2bRZUwWKfa_KbdAwqEbG5cSSa5k8FM9d6SZaPTXSUlD39279T5_BPb5VgcCdBsHI-wytRY9qnajVfsSwSclCSkDd2Esl1Va7FhD7Z3upYf3I4tux1DKZfz9V0vYMca_Vuq6pLj/s320/IMG_4518.JPG" width="280" border="0" /></a>ired elephant, and whether or not this is true, it does provide beautiful views over the city and countryside below. Many Thais come here to provide offerings in the hopes that they will receive good luck and positive karma. Jen’s karma must be a bit off, because she used fortune sticks there and received what must be the worst prediction ever – something along the lines of “You are terribly unlucky. No one can help you. You must watch every move you make or you will suffer.”<br /><br />We also visited the King’s summer palace, which, like his mother’s palace to the <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUPfkJ5gFlAlCTOcPn3dyEijCZ3Ky8Pr4YjI8ttAek4Q0qrycwpAEpTqWYZIZ3ITNPb6lAd2vyIbglFK7ZbJKFQrH-scnWHAdR3G6eJBbgJbEHntScOVVZkwogVmTUz4myO7WheLDv_Nj2/s1600-h/IMG_4555.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188928906380731730" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 270px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 141px" height="159" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUPfkJ5gFlAlCTOcPn3dyEijCZ3Ky8Pr4YjI8ttAek4Q0qrycwpAEpTqWYZIZ3ITNPb6lAd2vyIbglFK7ZbJKFQrH-scnWHAdR3G6eJBbgJbEHntScOVVZkwogVmTUz4myO7WheLDv_Nj2/s320/IMG_4555.JPG" width="297" border="0" /></a>north, has a stunning garden. It also has an Olympic-sized musical fountain, a gift to the Queen for her birthday. Now we all know what to give that person who has it all!The GILhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11593548266095732715noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6448455540054546810.post-51564284698057311832008-04-13T10:03:00.001-07:002008-12-11T07:24:32.689-08:00Chiang RaiAfter a quick pit stop back in Bangkok to trade Gil’s mom for Jen’s parents, we flew up to Chiang Rai. We d<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR8ERRttHyR-sruT8N0mZItCNdphnVK8S0u3sWgb7LddZwJzMG0A1Zj08WWtQC-002PNa21D502op6n5FZOriEEwwcrivQm6VjjqrQVBaNe0p-n-B6oLrGXwOhxWoX5WOer6iNnX-2Sy3i/s1600-h/IMG_4213.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188777727560725826" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="205" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR8ERRttHyR-sruT8N0mZItCNdphnVK8S0u3sWgb7LddZwJzMG0A1Zj08WWtQC-002PNa21D502op6n5FZOriEEwwcrivQm6VjjqrQVBaNe0p-n-B6oLrGXwOhxWoX5WOer6iNnX-2Sy3i/s320/IMG_4213.JPG" width="289" border="0" /></a>escended through luscious green mountains to land in a quiet little city that introduced us to the relaxed pace and friendliness that characterizes Northern Thailand.<br />Chiang Rai has a great night market with handicrafts from the local tribal communities, classic dance and music performances and stalls selling local cuisine. The food wasn’t particularly appealing to us (fried crickets, anyone?), but we did enjoy the entertainment and the cold pitchers of beer.<br /><br />To learn more about the people who create the lovely goods we saw at the market, we visited the Hill Tribe Museum, which presented inform<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQFgL50SKKo2RumS3_8hU4-GymupmbWYvVEC62PE7bfvxNGVIzAkZinv9RRItpPGWb-PF4OqaJIB_ZfKkDxDm8qCvitXY71WU75QHfhdVZI7T5Uo00cy3hqqV1OJA0uoP6mLq7lLU8YZvf/s1600-h/IMG_4333.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188781219369137602" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="299" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQFgL50SKKo2RumS3_8hU4-GymupmbWYvVEC62PE7bfvxNGVIzAkZinv9RRItpPGWb-PF4OqaJIB_ZfKkDxDm8qCvitXY71WU75QHfhdVZI7T5Uo00cy3hqqV1OJA0uoP6mLq7lLU8YZvf/s320/IMG_4333.JPG" width="226" border="0" /></a>ation about the culture of the various ethnic groups that live in the area. It was interesting to learn about the traditions of the Hmong, Karen, Akha and other tribal groups and about the challenges they face today in preserving their way of life. Most of the hill tribe people have migrated here from their native lands, as have thousands of Chinese. As it was nearing Chinese New Year’s, we got to see families presenting meals as offerings, lighting firecrackers, and undergoing other preparations for the big event.<br /><br />There are some lovely temples in Chiang Rai, both ancient and modern. The most impressive one is situated about 15 kilometers south of the city. Nicknamed the White Temple, this work in progress is designed by a man who became an internationally recognized modern artist, and then returned to his local community to erect the monument. Standing tall in gleaming white and adorned with delicate embellishments, it g<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMllvuo20GovN8lKlkAMkQZRgW6rIrqHoGj3kpUPDRAehBVEemAunId3wSBVtpESogDT4jEd9UYnFdQVdvCUGy3KkkSWWf5cf1kjTo4Q5_LGuYXDpwxdH5EmBn57cdcaIvQ-L-zkBNBLHN/s1600-h/IMG_4309.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188780588008945058" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="294" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMllvuo20GovN8lKlkAMkQZRgW6rIrqHoGj3kpUPDRAehBVEemAunId3wSBVtpESogDT4jEd9UYnFdQVdvCUGy3KkkSWWf5cf1kjTo4Q5_LGuYXDpwxdH5EmBn57cdcaIvQ-L-zkBNBLHN/s320/IMG_4309.JPG" width="212" border="0" /></a>lows like a bride on her wedding day. But this temple is not innocent and blissful, but rather presents a complex interpretation of the cosmos and the Buddhists journey toward enlightenment. On approaching the temple, you are greeted by red skulls surrounding a bottle of alcohol, warning you of the perils of not following the Buddhist precepts. You then step across a bridge spanning over ghostly arms reachin<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_I0sZ2vgP-huxoaR0WOmVJrsLkGETUF66SjuDBzZUo7iGknUUw8FWOpoPTK2BZziqL9F8J_fZl4TmOTDXyAk8WmyVTsbKsaQuEwbVThrt4XV0fYbJvV8Cctpx-IRdZDjQQvoKNBTWnxsH/s1600-h/IMG_4321.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188780948786197938" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_I0sZ2vgP-huxoaR0WOmVJrsLkGETUF66SjuDBzZUo7iGknUUw8FWOpoPTK2BZziqL9F8J_fZl4TmOTDXyAk8WmyVTsbKsaQuEwbVThrt4XV0fYbJvV8Cctpx-IRdZDjQQvoKNBTWnxsH/s320/IMG_4321.JPG" border="0" /></a>g to pull you down into hell. Inside the temple, the back wall depicts a soulless science fiction future illustrated by scenes from the Matrix and an image of the Twin Towers burning, among other images. Finally, after you’ve been reminded of all the suffering that can be relieved by nirvana, you are confronted with a radiant image of the Buddha, painted in bright pastels and swirling brush strokes and reminiscent of something you might have had hung in your dorm room under a black light. It was very fresh and very different and seemed to give an ancient religion new relevance in this quickly modernizing society.<br /><br />We rented a car and driver to take us to the border town of Mai Sai, where we needed to cross into <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwmLK9RGX5VZuxw08eliyv9VNQzQAkygIhaFX-Vsqb22oXdU3NWKpympl4GcDcw1WjzU1IoliUdS2AIaF-Gkr80fcM5WU7-laHH1Qga4PVYt6Gy3PfJnO8Wd1IzjwIse49qcddwF0V7FQ8/s1600-h/IMG_4240.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188778423345427794" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="258" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwmLK9RGX5VZuxw08eliyv9VNQzQAkygIhaFX-Vsqb22oXdU3NWKpympl4GcDcw1WjzU1IoliUdS2AIaF-Gkr80fcM5WU7-laHH1Qga4PVYt6Gy3PfJnO8Wd1IzjwIse49qcddwF0V7FQ8/s320/IMG_4240.JPG" width="285" border="0" /></a>Myanmar to renew our Thai visa waiver for another 30 days. We saw very little of Myanmar, but if it is representative of the rest of the country, the country consists mostly of bootleg videos, cheap cigarettes, dried mushrooms and other junk from China. Mai Sai didn’t have much more to offer, but we do get to say we’ve been the nor<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyw46BGtiDddXMFf_Nc4qIf4cYxjX0JM5xviHr0S875f8msLaVHN5zYU0-fm5D_06TrcIyn3gN2YPOkpBI7LLiH9BpnDRwcLGz0GuS267FeCXc3VnWiuc3uPMoucZaD4458Tt_eCCTm8vB/s1600-h/IMG_4241.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188779136309998946" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 258px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 262px" height="281" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyw46BGtiDddXMFf_Nc4qIf4cYxjX0JM5xviHr0S875f8msLaVHN5zYU0-fm5D_06TrcIyn3gN2YPOkpBI7LLiH9BpnDRwcLGz0GuS267FeCXc3VnWiuc3uPMoucZaD4458Tt_eCCTm8vB/s320/IMG_4241.JPG" width="278" border="0" /></a>thern most point in Thailand and the Golden Triangle, the historic center of the opium trade.<br /><br />Much more interesting was the countryside we passed through on the way to the Golden Triangle. We stopped at a cave temple frequented by mischievous monkeys and drove up into the mountains to visit the summer home of the King’s mother. She wanted to influence the lives of the hill tribe people by bringing them needed medical care and suppo<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZyRZvcNLo53m9Ylpddd2nzFQKdkEGJuTrfm8HhHt8InWQW0eDDQlu2eogsW6XnCLZJSsdhjmHTSYd0fSVEnXiwIn304J-mL_U_2qld32p7WwtC-bpLxUDBn_dJp-IdPDb2niWw4KvWc61/s1600-h/IMG_4295.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188780257296463250" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="209" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZyRZvcNLo53m9Ylpddd2nzFQKdkEGJuTrfm8HhHt8InWQW0eDDQlu2eogsW6XnCLZJSsdhjmHTSYd0fSVEnXiwIn304J-mL_U_2qld32p7WwtC-bpLxUDBn_dJp-IdPDb2niWw4KvWc61/s320/IMG_4295.JPG" width="287" border="0" /></a>rting agricultural initiatives to wean them out of the opium business. We were humbled by the relative modesty of her Swiss-style chalet, and stunned by the intricacy of her gardens, which included an orchid laboratory, rock garden and hundreds of fountains.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6EMaG8yYkg6h14ovQRG6jKVrzV6BXjptf79L4JH0eV5JnZwhLpnP_HHxHVyzmmzUwr78fYkLwmAiPTMJuxdCwL_a6KpE649vCbi4NhK5Eq8vuF-EoH61YrPLOzLA3wh83fS5ZTzjZHgRU/s1600-h/IMG_4279.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188779707540649346" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="214" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6EMaG8yYkg6h14ovQRG6jKVrzV6BXjptf79L4JH0eV5JnZwhLpnP_HHxHVyzmmzUwr78fYkLwmAiPTMJuxdCwL_a6KpE649vCbi4NhK5Eq8vuF-EoH61YrPLOzLA3wh83fS5ZTzjZHgRU/s320/IMG_4279.JPG" width="289" border="0" /></a>On the way home, our driver’s break neck speed slowed to a crawl as we tried to reach Mae Salong, a Chinese village nestled in the mountains. He yelled for us to get out, and suddenly we were running after the sputtering car. We finally reached a tea plantation, where we gave the car a rest and devised a plan to get the rest of the way to the village (two at a time). Given our troubles, we didn’t get to do much in the town other than taste some local teas (accompanied by fried bamboo worms), but it was a beautiful journey nonetheless.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNmhO1_6hawysSWQsc0nhvuiaOx35vVVRxYJxg0M0amTyp_nPcOqKRrgU-0YjGLTZp-ApfJN6xfHWRkZBj-DwLKbm9lCmD7_4QWoqwRh85e9nqlfY-SmzN_FtIM3rTma6lpmJmtywigZ4m/s1600-h/IMG_4246.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5188779458432546162" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="224" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNmhO1_6hawysSWQsc0nhvuiaOx35vVVRxYJxg0M0amTyp_nPcOqKRrgU-0YjGLTZp-ApfJN6xfHWRkZBj-DwLKbm9lCmD7_4QWoqwRh85e9nqlfY-SmzN_FtIM3rTma6lpmJmtywigZ4m/s320/IMG_4246.JPG" width="396" border="0" /></a>Jen Wagnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15242788047144327120noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6448455540054546810.post-62761721348021374352008-04-06T04:39:00.000-07:002008-12-11T07:24:35.055-08:00RaileyFro<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiHqGKl3t7wLagTEK8DtZazJVwg7LTiCXssoWJEcVm5J32JWBPuKMWUN-_byv75rQ74ANwNQ3VbqL9m0WG2yGf2LgKk_AbMGcP_5mLnpMp2_5VKhLSrsI4b_x5zuS6yGMTuAOfBamKZ_Y_/s1600-h/IMG_4150.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186097522211189938" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="208" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiHqGKl3t7wLagTEK8DtZazJVwg7LTiCXssoWJEcVm5J32JWBPuKMWUN-_byv75rQ74ANwNQ3VbqL9m0WG2yGf2LgKk_AbMGcP_5mLnpMp2_5VKhLSrsI4b_x5zuS6yGMTuAOfBamKZ_Y_/s320/IMG_4150.JPG" width="286" border="0" /></a>m Krabi we also went to Railey beach, an isolated peninsula jutting into the Andaman Sea. Arriving on the eastern shore, you have to climb out of the long tail boat and wade through mud to reach the beach, but your reward is access to one of the coolest places on earth.<br /><br />Railey has three main beaches, the eastern one being the least inviting to most people, but rock climbers would disagree. The sheer cliffs, full of cracks and crevices, provide the perfect challenge for beginners and experts alike. The inspiring views from the top make the verti<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUiJTd60edunoMqW8qaKTDaJoNw_kZmFsT648mAOam-fDrKiKjFmlqy_0fL4D8YhzN_eClmDqGvbP4q-cP1G3yk9lXHaEc6ggPhovdZVM3nKtoJtJ3fe6Hj_uStElremYG5xyIuNZrA-SO/s1600-h/IMG_4038.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186096353980085362" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="213" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUiJTd60edunoMqW8qaKTDaJoNw_kZmFsT648mAOam-fDrKiKjFmlqy_0fL4D8YhzN_eClmDqGvbP4q-cP1G3yk9lXHaEc6ggPhovdZVM3nKtoJtJ3fe6Hj_uStElremYG5xyIuNZrA-SO/s320/IMG_4038.JPG" width="295" border="0" /></a>cal scramble in the heat worth all the sweat and pain. This time around we only got to watch, but we will be back some day to take it on ourselves.<br /><br />Phra Nang beach is the most breathtaking of the three, and undoubtedly one of the most spectacular in the world. The southern end of the beach is cut off by a limestone clif<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh06zkUEIGJNSUknhep71dCYAssKlnCVYJt7c657h_PLBJ53hk8VxaTrQvNOBzk3zbHUY_Q5V9NgQKBleoNJLg9iez1PZF-vbHFd9QDqKdyyxty-cUC-uoUVBg2BdEi44BiLKsZ9I905d9C/s1600-h/IMG_4041.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186096551548580994" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="200" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh06zkUEIGJNSUknhep71dCYAssKlnCVYJt7c657h_PLBJ53hk8VxaTrQvNOBzk3zbHUY_Q5V9NgQKBleoNJLg9iez1PZF-vbHFd9QDqKdyyxty-cUC-uoUVBg2BdEi44BiLKsZ9I905d9C/s320/IMG_4041.JPG" width="284" border="0" /></a>f with massive stalactites reaching down towards the cool blue sea like the fingers of a thirsty man grasping for a drink. There are also hundreds of caves dotting the cliffs, including one that has curiously been filled with thousands of lingam statues. The lingam is a phallic symbol sacred to Buddhists and represents power and fertility.<br /><br />The beach was quite crowded, much more so than when Jen visited here six years<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJTibcY2MIvcmQve46vRtivoSO4pjSdgScyuRM1BiJz8ijn-pV-jlZAfMuMto9JGvePYvz36wodiNM25pVKxIkJW0252mO4nmCsg5UKNBEi-DsqNmxHvrIVESKipicKfksj-JM6atzbAZv/s1600-h/IMG_4048.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186096865081193618" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="293" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJTibcY2MIvcmQve46vRtivoSO4pjSdgScyuRM1BiJz8ijn-pV-jlZAfMuMto9JGvePYvz36wodiNM25pVKxIkJW0252mO4nmCsg5UKNBEi-DsqNmxHvrIVESKipicKfksj-JM6atzbAZv/s320/IMG_4048.JPG" width="223" border="0" /></a> earlier, but there was a festive air with locals selling wares on the beach and colorful long tails lined up along the shore. The monkeys were also enjoying the friendly atmosphere, jumping from limb to limb and grabbing bananas from wide eyed tourists.<br /><br />Our final stop was Railey West, where we had ice cream for lunch and took a final dip in the sea. As if the place could be any more magical, it suddenly started to rain even though the sun was still burning brigh<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_cFpnyNLxu_7U92WVsobVw41SeCimIGwmbn_y7ydYeuSEA5BoQ0IkBbGWxhohxApzz0-aL4LHsioZQCv9Aj2n2SKg9gIiBJ_hUAIf0mYMPSEJDqfMA8_1hysIuB4tE-KLJdWCsGHrCCCm/s1600-h/IMG_4098.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186097088419493026" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="205" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_cFpnyNLxu_7U92WVsobVw41SeCimIGwmbn_y7ydYeuSEA5BoQ0IkBbGWxhohxApzz0-aL4LHsioZQCv9Aj2n2SKg9gIiBJ_hUAIf0mYMPSEJDqfMA8_1hysIuB4tE-KLJdWCsGHrCCCm/s320/IMG_4098.JPG" width="301" border="0" /></a>tly overhead. It felt like we were in a dream. On the way home, our long tail raced the storm back to Krabi. The sudden turn in the weather took us by surprise, but at least it made it a bit easier to leave such an extraordinary place.The GILhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11593548266095732715noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6448455540054546810.post-59721817121828988452008-04-05T05:23:00.000-07:002008-12-11T07:24:36.831-08:00Krabi, Ko Lanta & AroundWe flew from Bangkok to Krabi, and were greeted by a fabulous sunset, the fir<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiknzfLmgLoKaFyFr3n9m752JXd8Lk1kj983Tc2UCVDahDwZCnG75sUj58gMrDXYxypcGEVwfJoLZ8pvTOygdcWivTUEeSPztGua6Y9Fel2-c6Qsx6d-uZgpSuJzJNpLtn36pMAFhI5ypuH/s1600-h/IMG_3776.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5185739834691507122" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="283" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiknzfLmgLoKaFyFr3n9m752JXd8Lk1kj983Tc2UCVDahDwZCnG75sUj58gMrDXYxypcGEVwfJoLZ8pvTOygdcWivTUEeSPztGua6Y9Fel2-c6Qsx6d-uZgpSuJzJNpLtn36pMAFhI5ypuH/s320/IMG_3776.JPG" width="211" border="0" /></a>st of many we’d be blessed with over the next week. Krabi town is situated on a river flowing out to the Andaman Sea, adjacent to mangrove s and encircled by large rock outcroppings blanketed in green vegetation. There is a fun night food market, and lots of cheap and tasty restaurants, but not much else to keep you occupied. Still, we were pleasantly surprised by the likability of what we expected to be just a transit stop in our journey. <div><div><div><div><div><div><br /><div>After an unnecessarily time consuming ferry ride, we arrived at Ko Lanta and our quaint bungalows just steps from Klong Dao beach. The beach was a long expanse of golden sand, lapped by gentle waves, and crisscrossed by baby stroller tracks (a clear sign we were in family territory, but, hey, we were with family after all!). The landscape contained more evergreens than the palm trees you might expect in the tropics, but it was a beautiful and quiet place to relax for a day or seven.</div><br /><div>Our days mostl<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim0IhrhdhUYu2loG2zAcgP_Y6kXZiRT2erfg5FAu5kVDYQvWh5VNtuRZKEKCV77CjOxtcb_0X4PsMff4lDxLv8myQ7TeBzXDGq0R5QGr-sTfuWELg2U_15tUuH15stgoZQUllGYcNtxFCp/s1600-h/IMG_3748.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5185739692957586338" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="282" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim0IhrhdhUYu2loG2zAcgP_Y6kXZiRT2erfg5FAu5kVDYQvWh5VNtuRZKEKCV77CjOxtcb_0X4PsMff4lDxLv8myQ7TeBzXDGq0R5QGr-sTfuWELg2U_15tUuH15stgoZQUllGYcNtxFCp/s320/IMG_3748.JPG" width="211" border="0" /></a>y consisted of swims in the turquoise water, walks on the beach at sunset, choosing a place for dinner, and watching movies (or fire dancers) after dark. When the stress of this hectic routine got to us, we would retire to air conditioned comfort for Thai massages.<br /></div><div>To liven things up a bit, we took a cooking class, where we learned to make some spicy curries and other Thai specialties. We got to eat our creations afterward, and although we hate to brag, it just might have been the most delicious food we had in all of Thailand. We were also lucky enough to catch some thai boxing, thanks to Mom’s hotel room overlooking a temporary <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkVqo-E8WGA9MoDAgv1xsTYss7akczbZgYbEaD2d_Y__dzTag-hDE3j-QlV2iulD1VAxvaviycW3qKtEMeqQdMRPbl0xyl9Bud_bmicyRXSNkvGRCfygHo6ew-yfCEpQbnnXXyA2Iw4iYi/s1600-h/IMG_3655.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5185738163949228930" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="199" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkVqo-E8WGA9MoDAgv1xsTYss7akczbZgYbEaD2d_Y__dzTag-hDE3j-QlV2iulD1VAxvaviycW3qKtEMeqQdMRPbl0xyl9Bud_bmicyRXSNkvGRCfygHo6ew-yfCEpQbnnXXyA2Iw4iYi/s320/IMG_3655.JPG" width="286" border="0" /></a>ring. Sipping beers on the balcony watching as bunch of sadistic guys beat the %&^# out of each other for free really made us feel like VIPs. </div><div><br />We also went on a few day trips to visit surrounding islands. On our first outing, we headed south for a little sunning and snorkeling. At Ko Cheauk, a swim through a cave brought us to a sandy emer<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdpjHnSin07zFPL1k-acB-hpjnC1RIT9jqiUHCyFpquJqUn3Sw1haVZzcr9926Dazp4hcxqzJgAhLgMyk2NgbC0kI0WyaEhND5iWpF6DuQmJsnW1cgX1F_W_A055w6vHPjWju58O3hHjrr/s1600-h/IMG_3699.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5185739220511183762" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="210" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdpjHnSin07zFPL1k-acB-hpjnC1RIT9jqiUHCyFpquJqUn3Sw1haVZzcr9926Dazp4hcxqzJgAhLgMyk2NgbC0kI0WyaEhND5iWpF6DuQmJsnW1cgX1F_W_A055w6vHPjWju58O3hHjrr/s320/IMG_3699.JPG" width="290" border="0" /></a>ald-colored cove completely enclosed by sheer cliffs. Nearby Ko Muk and Ko Kraden, we snorkeled in tons of colorful fish. On the way back, our boat passed the eastern side of Ko Lanta, where we caught a glimpse of the island in its more wild state, thanks to the protection of the rare mangroves lining the shore. </div><div><br />Gil also took a trip by speedbo<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisqFuL82mIE89Ndll8D0_YZtqFMmC_X_sqAqnBLLGGs-cinnXmhGRKHVGHwGnIhsQYlhiE0EFSca14wjtb6tH_aueZ5lk9-8EYZ6d-8QVNDnzrN6repTzaTKCa1OiFbAqq8cIA38ILtVG6/s1600-h/IMG_3988.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5185740556246012882" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="208" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisqFuL82mIE89Ndll8D0_YZtqFMmC_X_sqAqnBLLGGs-cinnXmhGRKHVGHwGnIhsQYlhiE0EFSca14wjtb6tH_aueZ5lk9-8EYZ6d-8QVNDnzrN6repTzaTKCa1OiFbAqq8cIA38ILtVG6/s320/IMG_3988.JPG" width="295" border="0" /></a>at to Ko Phi-Phi, a set of islands to the north. Whereas Lanta has rolling hills and long sandy beaches, Phi Phi is volcanic nature and is characterized by steep cliffs and sheer rock outcroppings. This hasn’t limited development though, with the isthmus connecting the two islands inundated with hotels and bungalow operations. This spot was hit the hardest by the tsunami, and although the government pledged to li<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD_49Zk7ELye4Raclb35nxf2aJArL_WMh4BDGS6UdgdZ_TKSREc0ttRvgAtIfo8PJ8H8pwhf2Rs6yGIAxkSiQhHMtmQJVkUIdwUOZ1AWQNzRkFJtHS4f0sb7BIcpgSOut4gUJfRN79VIsh/s1600-h/IMG_3827.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5185740066619741122" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="149" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD_49Zk7ELye4Raclb35nxf2aJArL_WMh4BDGS6UdgdZ_TKSREc0ttRvgAtIfo8PJ8H8pwhf2Rs6yGIAxkSiQhHMtmQJVkUIdwUOZ1AWQNzRkFJtHS4f0sb7BIcpgSOut4gUJfRN79VIsh/s320/IMG_3827.JPG" width="297" border="0" /></a>mit rebuilding this time around, it doesn’t look like it’s had any effect. But, if you can ignore the crowds, it’s still a little slice of paradise.</div><div><br />The trip also stopped on a couple of smaller islands in the area with colorful snorkeling and pristine beaches. Bamboo Island is uninhabited, except for the backpackers pitching tents for the night, and is the type of place you wouldn’t mind being shipwrecked. Maya Bay on Phi Phi Le was also beautiful – so beautiful, in fact, that they filmed the movie version of “The Beach” there. </div><div> </div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbvznmo81IfA5U-OQJdup2cNR9KU783m5bUx2hZusFNNf3neEDwBAHCpFVElo_ZdvblGqxU55pE6IZwRqihsLIRCIZtQ98ka4oGrcrXG3Xqtb7zdJmSDGHFsa-JUFu2XEBrc2tnWu8SEpQ/s1600-h/IMG_4015.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5185740702274900962" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 389px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 206px" height="231" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbvznmo81IfA5U-OQJdup2cNR9KU783m5bUx2hZusFNNf3neEDwBAHCpFVElo_ZdvblGqxU55pE6IZwRqihsLIRCIZtQ98ka4oGrcrXG3Xqtb7zdJmSDGHFsa-JUFu2XEBrc2tnWu8SEpQ/s320/IMG_4015.JPG" width="462" border="0" /></a></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Jen Wagnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15242788047144327120noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6448455540054546810.post-5850146353078736192008-03-23T08:09:00.000-07:002008-12-11T07:24:38.474-08:00AyuthayaFrom Kanchanaburi we travelled to Ayuthaya, stepping ba<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlC1rWMdUv5rpTQkjeVoeu00EKqFGIsh1FAOnfvuINDhTOFlm8dnKe00YMJx8J4UYiluq2eVM7QXMjec4fzzzjivtMEWpoJ2nbXHwqGuJPHUoN3seOlBghyphenhyphen3aX5uJQcPwYimGKSilUIw69/s1600-h/IMG_3592.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5180958915964073042" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="186" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlC1rWMdUv5rpTQkjeVoeu00EKqFGIsh1FAOnfvuINDhTOFlm8dnKe00YMJx8J4UYiluq2eVM7QXMjec4fzzzjivtMEWpoJ2nbXHwqGuJPHUoN3seOlBghyphenhyphen3aX5uJQcPwYimGKSilUIw69/s320/IMG_3592.JPG" width="301" border="0" /></a>ck in time to appreciate the legacy the ancient kingdom who established their capital here for nearly 400 years. But far from being a city lost to history, Ayuthaya has evolved into a prosperous commercial center that has earned its own place in modern Thailand. Surrounded by<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2VXxGOETO2J-Ljnon8USiZ7jeYC0gpZ_DqORaGSYwtgWVL-BM1_ep8iIxqU-WLKX32dpypYOjSM2blINZnu1PMRAxOE3qovVMuYKiHzs5rQVEezYMw9TKHaA9sYCO6GoHFcwmPieOnHMI/s1600-h/IMG_3447.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5180957309646304290" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="280" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2VXxGOETO2J-Ljnon8USiZ7jeYC0gpZ_DqORaGSYwtgWVL-BM1_ep8iIxqU-WLKX32dpypYOjSM2blINZnu1PMRAxOE3qovVMuYKiHzs5rQVEezYMw9TKHaA9sYCO6GoHFcwmPieOnHMI/s320/IMG_3447.JPG" width="221" border="0" /></a> three intersecting rivers and situated just an hour north of Bangkok, it’s a surprisingly genuine city to visit, with some authentic local markets and relaxed riverside restaurants.<br /><br />We began our explorations of the city with an early morning tour of some of the major temples. There are no tuk tuks or taxi cabs in Ayuthaya – just mini pick-up trucks that you ride in the back of – so, it makes for an interesting ride. In the afternoon, we continued our <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif6_lmt0loeXyy4L1O5uZ_QxhJUE79C3bXsqMiMSujLcrIUBxIXZ0dO3RcunYw_QMVYOwQrMs2gHTChalsQ-4KA5RdQqgEV4AP4qtV4i4kBDVLtDSHz9PsufOaxbAJiR7j1CgIwSCWyS2N/s1600-h/IMG_3403.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5180955406975792146" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="211" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif6_lmt0loeXyy4L1O5uZ_QxhJUE79C3bXsqMiMSujLcrIUBxIXZ0dO3RcunYw_QMVYOwQrMs2gHTChalsQ-4KA5RdQqgEV4AP4qtV4i4kBDVLtDSHz9PsufOaxbAJiR7j1CgIwSCWyS2N/s320/IMG_3403.JPG" width="283" border="0" /></a>explorations by long-tail boat, an equally peculiar (and noisy) mode of transport that gave us a different perspective on this water-centric locale.<br /><br />The temples we visited exhibit many different influences, including those of th<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT4mkSd85LsW_OEHQ8g-5rQz_A2_gZbfs2DzcCGTB7gdZE0WOHdqdHh4Ac588P2mUkCUCAbBXenEJ-rpE6EaTd2uw6DMFlS-pTMp3F5B1tQZ9ulAIT3a6AAI0hGIVWvFh17vlRl-6iISQP/s1600-h/IMG_3476.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5180958615316362290" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="292" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT4mkSd85LsW_OEHQ8g-5rQz_A2_gZbfs2DzcCGTB7gdZE0WOHdqdHh4Ac588P2mUkCUCAbBXenEJ-rpE6EaTd2uw6DMFlS-pTMp3F5B1tQZ9ulAIT3a6AAI0hGIVWvFh17vlRl-6iISQP/s320/IMG_3476.JPG" width="215" border="0" /></a>e earlier Sukhothai and Angkor empires. They are mostly in ruins thanks to the Burmese, who destroyed the capital and forced the Thais to flee to the present day capital of Bangkok. Yet, they are still impressive – giant brick and sandstone towers reach toward the sky, as flowering trees envelop them in an attempt to draw the sites back to a more natural state.<br /><br />Although many of the Buddha images have been stolen or beheaded by looters, the city retains its religious importance and many younger temples h<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinKn_t0_83H5LIuOwzcLc9zEYBaPMFG16kXDDt1nGhBBbx8LweSdMLqBhpDCFe6TWbLkqM6WjxuAOVeuZOBjDVjYYq21mhDiklK8nQS8NzelAhkWDaxsrpAkaURPfekjRtLatHNx-VkcE-/s1600-h/IMG_3532.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5180958778525119554" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="303" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinKn_t0_83H5LIuOwzcLc9zEYBaPMFG16kXDDt1nGhBBbx8LweSdMLqBhpDCFe6TWbLkqM6WjxuAOVeuZOBjDVjYYq21mhDiklK8nQS8NzelAhkWDaxsrpAkaURPfekjRtLatHNx-VkcE-/s320/IMG_3532.JPG" width="225" border="0" /></a>ave been erected nearby or on top of the ancient ones. Hundreds of pilgrims make their way here each day to honor the giant reclining Buddha or to give alms to the monks who reside here. At Wat Phanan Choeng, we watched a group of devotees wrapping a colossal golden Buddha in sacred yellow cloth, while others outside gave offerings to the fattened catfish swimming in the river.<br /><br />It’s easy to get temple overload in a place so rich in cultural treasures, so we left ready and excited to head south to the islands of the Andaman Sea for week of rest and relaxation.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMVbnRIQ_jUoiutT3jGGvVW_ak6lEaxBRIhrnbkmTAsacU5E4_JZNQE_P8C6606SYgz6kuvobZSz2ujECWj3WZFQdlbgdVRqbyG0EpCieFjw_Hqwt8vpRL7phnlpiFMaHo0Qs-JP2NTAQH/s1600-h/IMG_3608.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5180959044813091938" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 423px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 216px" height="210" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMVbnRIQ_jUoiutT3jGGvVW_ak6lEaxBRIhrnbkmTAsacU5E4_JZNQE_P8C6606SYgz6kuvobZSz2ujECWj3WZFQdlbgdVRqbyG0EpCieFjw_Hqwt8vpRL7phnlpiFMaHo0Qs-JP2NTAQH/s320/IMG_3608.JPG" width="406" border="0" /></a>The GILhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11593548266095732715noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6448455540054546810.post-57789882992115146582008-03-22T23:12:00.000-07:002008-12-11T07:24:40.051-08:00KanchanaburiWe took the train to Kanchanaburi, a relaxed city spread out along<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHigIeDfq9H2yVXmgK24Im4Yfm97z-9Me7FR3xH-T6Y0nmeNCsMjRmQKGwcmA440mMSSZYMxM5rnlYOdXtlXyhp-eJedelnCfoeDGvdAoZFtvI3MK2TY0yF0PQBc-yVzCiKP-373ZclppK/s1600-h/IMG_3363.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5180819084713817090" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="294" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHigIeDfq9H2yVXmgK24Im4Yfm97z-9Me7FR3xH-T6Y0nmeNCsMjRmQKGwcmA440mMSSZYMxM5rnlYOdXtlXyhp-eJedelnCfoeDGvdAoZFtvI3MK2TY0yF0PQBc-yVzCiKP-373ZclppK/s320/IMG_3363.JPG" width="218" border="0" /></a>side the River Kwai. It’s a popular weekend retreat from Bangkok, which means the peace and quiet of this otherwise relaxed town is often disrupted by the noisy engines of the long-tails or the blasting sounds of karaoke barges plying up and down the river.<br /><br />Kanchanaburi is an important historical site, because it is where the Japanese began building the legendary railway to Burma during World War II. The railway was a critical part of Axis’ offensive strategy, as it would forge a critical link between the Far East and India, allowing Japan to extend its strategic control in westward. The railway would be an engineering feat in its ow<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEyr85WIXso0qjzwMT79K89NGRUTdG1_k9vfyOAK0kpLrMNvSu6FDHbuELE-PiRBuYisA1GlXSoEklQiMSCRe6jOD7gIBSf3HHxrRNFejGDsPUgp4quYm2U5AQT57w6v2xc_AAtolRJssR/s1600-h/IMG_3356.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5180818762591269874" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 266px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 170px" height="209" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEyr85WIXso0qjzwMT79K89NGRUTdG1_k9vfyOAK0kpLrMNvSu6FDHbuELE-PiRBuYisA1GlXSoEklQiMSCRe6jOD7gIBSf3HHxrRNFejGDsPUgp4quYm2U5AQT57w6v2xc_AAtolRJssR/s320/IMG_3356.JPG" width="300" border="0" /></a>n right, as it crossed some of the most inhospitable terrain on earth – monsoon -fueled rivers, steep mountains and sweltering, mosquito-infested jungles – but, it was really the speed at which it was accomplished that made it so astonishing. Engineers estimated that it would take nearly 3 years to complete, but it was finished in closer to one.<br /><br />Unfortunately, this speed had a terrible human cost. Thousands of Allied prisoners of war and a hundred times more conscripted workers from India and South East Asia died in the process from tro<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWJ2sUddnT7-AXhzgfLrix9_zS-8QT2SYY5aJjCqgP5iOKICwh9aJy-_J-orQrZ9rIF975JekC66urFNjtfwbE6EAwNEBvlOSgrqLKwAfczQIyKLBdAl77N7DPzJKyNVkE4hvEWHFrSg5h/s1600-h/IMG_3280.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5180817602950099906" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="289" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWJ2sUddnT7-AXhzgfLrix9_zS-8QT2SYY5aJjCqgP5iOKICwh9aJy-_J-orQrZ9rIF975JekC66urFNjtfwbE6EAwNEBvlOSgrqLKwAfczQIyKLBdAl77N7DPzJKyNVkE4hvEWHFrSg5h/s320/IMG_3280.JPG" width="218" border="0" /></a>pical diseases, malnutrition or overwork. The Allied POWs have a cemetery in town and there are a couple of memorial museums that tell this sad story. We traveled by train on a section of the original so-called “death railway” and walked across the infamous “bridge over River Kwai”.<br /><br />Kanchanaburi is also known for its natural beauty, so headed out into the surrounding countryside. We started at Erawin National Park, which contains a series of 8 pretty waterfalls. Even though it’s the dry season and the falls were not at their most spectacular, there was enough water for Rita and Jen to take a quick dip into the icy waters of the 5th falls while Gil ran the rest of the way up to the top.<br /><br />After lunch, we got rides from some <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3qHFG_MiGimaMnRGYWHQg9vl0r8mT3v0uosNT2568I48Bxm8-cXGBEDt0QJa8S2OgxW9WsbIRLoVqCZpEsCqGqMX_A3ibrmy-uvudlry0w6-LUI9BelctwUUNJRB0TWVFVa_9vyDXl6xq/s1600-h/IMG_3304.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5180818191360619474" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="219" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3qHFG_MiGimaMnRGYWHQg9vl0r8mT3v0uosNT2568I48Bxm8-cXGBEDt0QJa8S2OgxW9WsbIRLoVqCZpEsCqGqMX_A3ibrmy-uvudlry0w6-LUI9BelctwUUNJRB0TWVFVa_9vyDXl6xq/s320/IMG_3304.JPG" width="287" border="0" /></a>gentle grey giants. After logging was banned in Thailand, thousands of domesticated elephants were unemployed and many have found new jobs in the tourism industry. There is vigorous debate about the proper role and treatment of domesticated elephants going for<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha4CFTQy9E4sgHQwpj40oMcy8hzWmF_mgaE90GFY7BbC6zvfxWPVkiXnt9VtCyXspEUx-HAzoQBDLciZBo8Zk-cQAT_1oatK81Ubv3-FdO1KBupa1VXHDd_pqxg4fZd7pER4RjskV1zs50/s1600-h/IMG_3339.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5180818431878788066" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="274" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha4CFTQy9E4sgHQwpj40oMcy8hzWmF_mgaE90GFY7BbC6zvfxWPVkiXnt9VtCyXspEUx-HAzoQBDLciZBo8Zk-cQAT_1oatK81Ubv3-FdO1KBupa1VXHDd_pqxg4fZd7pER4RjskV1zs50/s320/IMG_3339.JPG" width="214" border="0" /></a>ward, but it’s clear that their livelihood will continue to depend on interested tourists – whether it’s trekking, begging in the streets of Bangkok, performing in elephant shows or, preferably, just being themselves in a wildlife sanctuary. Unfortunately, there is just not enough land or money for the latter to be a realistic option at this point.<br /><br />After our hot and uncomfortable rides, we took a short, but refreshing trip down the river on log rafts (or, floating alongside the raft at times). We also visited a dark and cool cave temple with a large sitting Buddha, one of <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBA9b6icmZ1b92C8_olEaD4DPiO3mpFz0MZ_i6wBU9nr4L1OpoHr4hMOzmDae4GLWIKWo2Zx1OWxfuQdovu5Ebxw_QjABL2VFZmyauEdMDxGOD90Y8B9gV61un9nWU-QX3F6L1iiY7b8cM/s1600-h/IMG_3231.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5180817345252062130" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" height="215" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBA9b6icmZ1b92C8_olEaD4DPiO3mpFz0MZ_i6wBU9nr4L1OpoHr4hMOzmDae4GLWIKWo2Zx1OWxfuQdovu5Ebxw_QjABL2VFZmyauEdMDxGOD90Y8B9gV61un9nWU-QX3F6L1iiY7b8cM/s320/IMG_3231.JPG" width="288" border="0" /></a>many sites of worship built into the surrounding mountains.<br />We took a trip to the Tiger Temple, another controversial wildlife initiative. The temple began as a sanctuary for hurt or abandoned animals of all types, but the tigers are clearly the stars of the sho<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj96OJqlF_A483DdSujyNPlaZsONDUIz0m9dmYkBTyQILpcQBsg5vk-QCgf4oiK4-J8GjjL0kImhGJ6BMYLYmiTSHks7K9yVDfaoQXwe_scPGikuXGFrn1qQmIkp9yWU1l8dFzJW4E2GMgq/s1600-h/IMG_3190.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5180816950115070882" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" height="296" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj96OJqlF_A483DdSujyNPlaZsONDUIz0m9dmYkBTyQILpcQBsg5vk-QCgf4oiK4-J8GjjL0kImhGJ6BMYLYmiTSHks7K9yVDfaoQXwe_scPGikuXGFrn1qQmIkp9yWU1l8dFzJW4E2GMgq/s320/IMG_3190.JPG" width="207" border="0" /></a>w these days. For $10 you can enter the sanctuary and have your picture taken petting the tigers as they take their afternoon “cat nap”. The money will supposedly be used to build an island on which the tigers will be released to live in a close-to-wild existence, but some people question whether this in the real goal of the monks. Admittedly, it seems a bit unnatural to get so close to these giant cats, but after talking to some of the volunteers we are hopeful that the effort to improve the situation is genuine. And, hey, we did get some pretty amazing pictures out of the whole experience!The GILhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11593548266095732715noreply@blogger.com1